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I’m hoping to get into mountain biking and would like some recommendations on good starter bikes for an athletic person.?
I’ve had cheap mountain bikes growing up but I’m looking to ride trails here in the Bay Area of California and want something quality but not outrageously expensive like some of the more advanced bikes.
- Anonymous2 months ago
Ask your parents for a substantial amount of money and use that money to buy the best bike you can then afford.
- ?Lv 72 months ago
Many trial centres have ex hire bikes for sale. They are normally well maintained and often sold after a single season, so ( almost) bang up to date. You’ll get a good spec bike for half price.
Aluminium frames are so much better than steel for lightness, you’ll notice right away. Carbon fibre and titanium tend to be in the outrageously expensive class.
I’d go for a hard tail with good spec brakes and gears rather than spend a lot on a full suspension bike.
- RaleighBobLv 62 months ago
IMHO, the main thing you want avoid in a MTB is a freewheel rear cog vs. a cassette. A cassette type cog is stronger & longer lasting. A freewheel might be OK for very light manmade trails. Here's the difference. https://www.sheldonbrown.com/free-k7.html
Going with a cassette means you're now into the $650 and up price range for a basic hardtail MTB. You'll also be getting better shifters, derailleurs, brakes & so on. To use the word David used, the bicycle biz is very 'homogenous'. Everyone knows what the competitors are building & will make something just as good within the same price range. So, don't let anyone try to convince you brand A is better than brand B.
The best bike is the one that fits you the best. 'Fit & Feel' should be your #1 priority. Don't forget the necessities for trips leading away from home. Besides the obvious water bottle & cage, you'll need an under-the-seat bag, spare tube, tire levers, folding multi-purpose tool and a source of air. That could be either CO2 cartridges or a frame pump. I'd suggest a pump. CO2 molecules escape a tube much faster than air. After a half hour or so, your tire might be dangerously low again. I'd suggest getting this one. https://www.topeak.com/us/en/products/216-Mini-Pum...
- Sidewinder JerryLv 62 months ago
Go to a reputable bicycle shop; let them know the level you'd like to eventually be able to ride at. They can best help you pick out the best bike for your goals and budget.Source(s): Motorized bicycle owner and builder.
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- OldHippieLv 72 months ago
Describe "outrageously expensive". $500? $750? $1,000? Or more? I have no idea what your bank account or credit card limit looks like.
Step 1) Google the words "bicycle shop" along with your zip code or closest city. I've done it here using San Francisco as an example: https://www.google.com/search?source=hp&ei=im0xYKP... Google will even include a map.
Step 2) Pick a few. Now go TEST RIDE at least 2 to 3 bikes. The more the better. DO NOT get in a rush. Don't jump at the first piece of eye candy that comes your way. Test rides are FREE! Yes...you'll probably have to leave collateral, such as a driver's license or credit card. But, you'll get it back.
Step 3) Ask questions. If a salesperson treats you with disrespect...move along to the next bike shop. Look at reviews on Google & other websites like YELP. Hint: The largest bike shop isn't always the best. Smaller Mom & Pop bike shops often have the best Customer Service. Remember that all new bikes come with a "Service Warranty". This is good for at least one FREE tune-up as the bike gets settled in. Ask how long. Some shops will extend this to a year - or more.
Step 4) Watch funny YouTube video... https://youtu.be/WPVRU7jSYkQ
- DavidLv 62 months ago
1) the bike biz is very homogenous. Similar money buys you comparable bikes regardless of what manufacturer it is.
2) if you’re new to it, which shop you buy from is more important than what brand you get. It’s just about guaranteed that you will need to talk to them again. Pick one you feel you can trust.
3) I have NO IDEA what ”outrageously expensive” means to you.
4) if you’re on a budget, buy the simplest bike you can get that still will satisfy your needs. The fewer features, the more money there is for each feature.
5) at a ROUGH recommendation, USD 1000 will get you a decent hardtail/XC bike. You need to get pretty dedicated before you can claim that it’s the bike holding you back.
6) if you’re looking to do the kind of riding where a FS is pretty much needed, be ready to pay more. Cheap suspension is often less inspiring to ride than no suspension.
7) set some money aside for accessories and adaptation. Buying a good bike doesn’t guarantee that it’s a good bike for YOU. While overall upgrades rarely make sense, replacing some fit items may be unavoidable. Stem, saddle, bar, pedals.
You need a basic tool kit. If you ever intend to venture outside walking range of home/parked car/public transport, you need flat-fixing stuff.