2011 Jeep Compass problems?

I have a 2011 Jeep Compass 2.0L giving me some problems. The check engine light turned on about 2 weeks ago and it was error code P0339 which was the crankshaft position sensor. That part was replaced and the engine light turned off but still keeps giving me problems. The engine kind of hesitates when it is parked or driving at low speeds and almost sounds like it wants to shut off. It actually has turned off on me a few times on the road but it starts back up. Today I had the check engine light on again and it was error code P0113 which was the mass air flow sensor. I replaced that and the engine light turned off but still having the same issue with the engine sounding like it wants to turn off. I changed the spark plugs (iridium ones) because someone told me it could be those and its still doing the same thing. The truck currently has around 103,000 miles and has never given me any problems prior to this issue besides regular maintenance work.

Does anyone know or have any suggestions of what else could be going wrong? Any help would be appreciated!


1 Answer

  • 1 month ago

    YES YES YES YES YES! STOP usign CHEAPO OIL CHANGES< and I am VERY SORRY you have one of these things! The 3.7 is VERY ODD engine, and loves to spit out ROCKER ARMS! The engineers did NOT include RETAINER springs for the rockers and a small amount of CARBON buildup on the valves will EJECT a rocker or two! THAT BEING SAID.. there's MORE! The WATER PUMP on these engine is like a TINKER TOY! and CONSUMER REPORTS black balled these types as well! BUT You have one so lets go from there!?? for SOME reason JEEP uses CHAMPION SPARK PLUGS which are NOT testing well in plug tests! They do NOT burn fuel efficiently and last the LEAST longest!, Get a set of DENSO TWIN TIP IRIDIUM LASER PLUGS @ $7 each from ADVANCE AUTO! get a can of AMSOIOL PPOWER FOAM and clean the THROTTLE BODY and the IDLE ARI CONTROL VALVE . Run  POWER FOAM through the PCV VALVE with engine running to clean the PISTON RINGS and the piston TOPS as well! EXPECT a HUGE cloud of smoke at the tailpipe! DO NOT be concerned about it! It is the BAKED IN COKE on your engines RINGS that are NOW cleaned and resetting for the NEXT 100,000 miles of use! Use LIQUI MOLY engine sludge remover to get the VALVOLINE and other JUNK oils out of the picture! Use PENNZOIL ULTRA PLATINUM< and you get warranty put to 500,000 miles!. IT is NOT made from CRUDE OIL< nut from NATURAL GAS that CLEANS with every piston stroke! Use the AMSOIL POWER FOAM on the IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE and THROTTLE BODY as BAD OIL Has filled into and BAKED into these engine parts! >> Also into LIFTERS and oil pump and pick up as well! ALSO into VALVE COVERS. I have ALSO used a mixture of AMSOIL POWER FOAM and GUNK original engine cleaner, ORANGE in the crankcase! It is MOSTLY diesel fuel and DISSOLVES varnish, wax, COKE and SLUDGY TAR nearly on contact. LIQUI MOLY also makes JETRONIC CLEANER to add to the gas and clean the injector pintles. It is ALWAYS the AIR side of the engine that gets corrupted with SLDUGE anyway! BAD OIL makes BAD s=]acidic vapors that can EAT up gaskets, seals and RUBBER parts like INTAKE snorkels! The IDLE AR}IR CONTROL VALVE is on or near the THROTTLE BODY! If it is JAMMED UP with baked in oily SLUDGE< it CANNOT MOVE Or do it's job which is to KEEP IDLE Steady at STOPPING or when the AC is turned on! It also protects the CONVERTER from overheating  and preserves integrity of the O2 sensors!  You will be AMAZED at all the POWER hiding within your ENGINE when the DENSO TWIN TIP IRIDIUM LASER plugs are installed instead of OLD fashioned CHAMPION JUNK PLUGS!    The MIRACLE is that NOW we use EUROPEAN Style LOW DULFUR fuel to save the environment and that IRIDIUM in the combustion chamber burns MORE fuel, MORE completely and this results in MORE POWER when needed, CLEAN engines inside, Better economy from the engine! a CONVERTER that LASTS and LASTS!  JEEP is like GM! They chose CHEAP suppliers for their cars, like CHEAP CRANK SENSORS< !CHEAP MAP sensors; CHEAP MAF sensors!>>>ANYWYAS>> get a  can of GUNK ORIGINAL ORANGE engine cleaner and go to a DIY car wash! CLEAN the living crap out of your ENGIEN BAY! The CRANK sensor is VULNERABLE to engine heat and is usually RIGHT in the FRONT of the engine! ECLEAN the space between the RADIATOR and the AC condenser! Here leaves, twigs, sticks, feathers, animal droppings COLLECT over time and are TRAPPED in this space! REMOVE all the hardware you need to access this area! DO this with ENGINE RUNNING! The CRANK POSOTION SENSOR is an ELECTRO MAGNET! It STOPS working if it gets TOO HOT! Cleaning the engine bay will HELP to keep it COOLER and working as it should! NEVER USE VALVOONE or PRESTONE in this thing!!! You will head for GASKET AND SEAL issues very soon! There are SO MANY of these 3.7 engine in the JUNK YARD, its AMAZING. Get BORG WARNER replacement parts if you CAN! They are made to HIGHER quality from the start. >>>I GUARANTEE>>> from your description here that your IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE is JAMMED Up with BAKED IN SLUDGE and TAR from BAD oil use! ALSO that the BACK SIDE of the THROTTLE PLATES will be ALSO covered in BAKED IN sludgy tar and wax and VARNISH! ONCE CLEANED UP things will get BACK to NORMAL! Use those DENSO TT iridium plugs! Go to TEN stores to find them! They are worth their WEIGHT in GOLD!  LEARN how to READ the OIL dipstick! If the oils is DARK or BLACKISH or THICK< it is time to change it! CHECK the condition of your BRAKE FLUID as well! If it is DARK BROWN to BLACK< it is a DEAD FLUIDS and you are risking BRAKE CALIPER damage and same for BRAKE BOOSTER an MASTER CYLINDER! This MUST be POWER FLUSHED OUT with new fluid PWOER FLUSHED back in! OLD fluid turns into LIQUID SANDPAPER and ACIDIC corrosive liquid!  Your will SAVE in the long run  as the CALIPERS will all WORK RIGHT! And the AUMINUNM in the system will be protected BEST! EVEN change your STEERING LFUID as well!  And do a FLUID and FILTER change of the TRANSMISIION at a CHRYSLER or JEEP dealership! HIOPEFULLY they will use the RIGHT equipment and items for the job! MANY CARS now use ZF German trannies in them which is GREAT some even have DRAIN PLUGS on the converters so ALL the fluid gets changed t one time. It's ALL UP TO YOU! NEVER use those BARGAIN oil change specials! Get your FUEL FITLER changed and your CABIN AIR FILTER changed now, too! It's called PREVENTATIVE CAR CARE! I am SO sorry you have one of these JEEPS! They have NEVER scored well in testing and STILL DO NOT< but it's YOURS so do the best you can!  DO NOT USE PRESTONE either or anything OTHER than CHRYSLER coolant! Using that PENNZOIL will get your warranty to 500,000 miles of use! It DOES NOT get any better than THAT! YOu wil feel the DIFFERENCE with PENNZOIL and DENSO in just a DAY OR SO! The PENNZOIL will clean the inside of enjoin to SHOWROOM and CLEAN T BODY and IACV and PCV will return driving conditions BACK TO NORMAL! These things ALWAYS start by BAD OIL CHOICES! VALVOPLILNE is an oil NO FACTORY on eArth will use! I consider it to be JUNK OIL! It ROTS rubber parts and causes SEALS to leak and oil pumps to WEAR FASTEST! LQUI MOLY also makes GREAT oil as well! Anything with a TUV seal of approve=]al from Germa y is about the BEST you can get or use! GOOD LUCK! Youc an EMAIL me or even CALL me at 231-288-4995 if my messaging is NOT full! GOOD LUCK again! SAVE YOUR ENGIEN with these changes! Your CONVERTER will last its very LONGEST this way! BYE for NOW!

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