Buying a 65 mustang car? What's the most important to look for on these car to make sure they still have some life in them?

I want to buy 65 mustang ( I have 13 toyota corolla with 40k, which will be my main driveR) but I want to buy one of these to go cruising. What should i take in consideration? How many miles is too much?

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  • 1 year ago

    Rust

  • 1 year ago

    Drive the car and decide. Don't expect a comfortable ride with an old car. Sure, you can upgrade the suspension but still, it's gonna treat you like an old car.

  • No

  • 1 year ago

    Even a rustbucket can have lots of life in it. My first car was a '66, bought it in '73 with 43k miles on it. The doors were already eaten all the way through at the bottom - there was absolutely zero in the way of rustproofing in those days. But the engine and transmission were beasts. 3-speed automatic with the 289 V-8 and I beat many muscle cars off the line.*

    So, go drive them. See how the engine responds. See how it sounds. Feel if the transmission shifts smoothly. Unless the car has been modded, it's going to have a carburetor. Remove the air filter and look inside the carburetor to see how clean it is and look for gummy deposits. Of course, get underneath and test the floorboards for soft spots. If the body looks nice - bring a good magnet with you - test every area of the doors, quarterpanels and fenders for plastic filler. I'm not saying don't buy a car that has substantial bodywork done to it, just adjust the price substantially.

    Lastly, even a car in really good shape is going to have things go wrong with it. These cars are fairly easy to work on. I replaced the radiator, the water lines, brake lines, shoes and pads myself, and I wasn't any hotshot mechanic. The only thing I had someone else do was re-core the radiator - don't know if anyone still does that these days. If you don't think you are up to do these types of jobs yourself, I would steer clear of ANY classic model except one with a professional restoration.

    Lastly, if you like everything you see after checking, take it to a professional mechanic and have them go over the car.

    * If you know the old Foreigner song 'Rev On the Red Line' and the line, 'Cruisn' all night on Lake Avenue - it's a piece of cake if you know what to do.'

    Well, Lou Gramm is from my hometown and I used to run against the big boys on Lake Ave. Never engaged in anything high-stakes where you would lose money or have to hand over your registration, like the song talked about - it was just a song that romanticized things a bit - it was more of a thing where a Corvette or Super-Bee or Olds 442 would pull up next to you at the light and you'd exchange glances, 'You wanna go?' and I would blow many of them away - for the first tenth of a mile. Then I was toast. But that car was quick. That 289 was a big motor in that light of a car.

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  • 1 year ago

    Nice car 🚗

  • 1 year ago

    Those early Mustangs were built on the Falcon platform. You take a Falcon and a Mustang and sit them side by side with the hoods up, and they are identical. Same engine, suspension, same everything. Only the sheet metal changed, and wheelbase, I think.

    About 5 years ago, I bought my son a Falcon Futura 2 dr hardtop in beautiful condition for 1200 dollars. The engine needed a little work, but it was a great car at a great price.

  • 1 year ago

    A cheap one is likely an old "Rust Bucket" the reason not many survive, they have been majorly repaired. Some repairs are only putting lipstick on a pig. A cheap car would likely be a PIG. A high cost one may(?) have been done right. Replacing body and under carriage floor panels, and inner fenders. For a GOOD job that car will likely bring WELL upward of $20,000.

    I have an Old '69 Yenko Camaro about 20,000 original miles. A VERY difficult car to keep "Kosher". Careful maintenance to preserve "originality", I even replace most the bolts as I do repairs if they are marked by a wrench. SO if you buy a REALLY good Mustang, be aware ........ you should enjoy doing PROPER mechanical work. To pay someone would cost you dearly to give the same level of attention.

    HONESTLY ... ( I love those Dinosaurs ) your best purchase would be to buy one of these newer HOT blooded Mustangs then an old car. For the same money, a more drive-able car. OR buy one already done and let the builder take the hit. You will never get a return on ALL the money you put in a car to re-build it.

    Long live the Dinosaurs !

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hbfsCZdJJKA

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    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K3L-nJMyMPI

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    Source(s): ADDED : A side note: My Dad died recently. While "sleuthing" old files I found the original invoice for his 1960 Triumph TR3. $2400 in the day. WITH the optional Wire wheels. AND electronic "push button" for OVERDRIVE usable in EACH gear. The FIRST car I ever drove. In 1974 I bought a new 1974 Trans AM 455 SD (Super Duty engine). I paid $4400 for that car.
  • 1 year ago

    Any used car needs a pre-purchase inspection by a mechanic of your choice (about $100). This just needs one who has worked on plenty of 1960s Fords. We could never begin to tell you all the specific things he will look for.

  • JetDoc
    Lv 7
    1 year ago

    MOST 50-year-old cars are going to have some major issues with rust. Unless the car has been professionally restored, it's likely to have some gaping holes in the floors and around the lower parts of the doors and fenders. Look for cheaply done repairs using fiberglass instead of steel, or heavy applications of body putty.

  • Anonymous
    1 year ago

    here's a few things -

    unless you want to buy a fixer-upper, you will pay in the $25000 range.................at least

    w/a vehicle that old, unless it's already been professionally restored, you will find all kinds of things that will still need to be repaired

    look around at ALL the vehicles near you, and don't buy based on price alone

    have a mechanic do a complete inspection before purchase

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