how do i drain all the brake fluid from my 2006 cts? front calipers are sticking and i want to change to a better brand of fluid.?

Update:

i have rebuilt them

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  • 3 years ago
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    It's usually changed by bleeding the brakes and topping up with the new brake fluid until all the old stuff has been purged through.

    But all brake fluid meeting a particular specification is the same: so DOT4 fluid is all DOT4 regardless of the badge on the bottle, the brand name only makes a difference to the price not the performance.

    Just change the fluid by purging fresh fluid through via bleeding at the correct intervals to maintain maximum performance: except for silicone-based brake fluid and also mineral-oil based fluids (such as green LHM) they all absorb water from the atmosphere over time. Eventually the fluid carries sufficient water for it to boil and turn to steam under heavy braking, and because gases are compressible and fluid isn't the result is spongy/useless braking. The excess water content also causes corrosion in the braking system. So routine replacement (typically every two years) gets rid of the old fluid before it carries sufficient moisture to cause problems.

    BUT... If your calipers are sticking then changing the brake fluid won't fix it. They need to be removed, stripped down and carefully inspected. The two most common causes are either corrosion caused by old water-laden brake fluid or rubber seals which have swollen due to brake fluid contaminated with mineral oil or mineral grease (including synthetic versions). Corroded brake cylinders cannot be fixed without major machine-shop work and the same goes for corroded pistons, but if it's just swollen seals then if the pistons and cylinders are all good it is totally possible to flush through with fresh fluid to wash all traces of contaminated fluid away and then replace the seals, it's a labour intensive job but the parts are very cheap.

    If you don't want to do that, or cannot do that, then the calipers need to be replaced and all other brake hydraulic parts such as master cylinders, balancing valves, and rear calipers (if the rear brakes are disc/rotors) or rear cylinder (if the rear brakes are drums) also need to be stripped and examined or just replaced. If any corrosion has occurred then it will be throughout the system, and if any seals have swelled due to oil/grease contamination then all system seals will be affected. Sorry to break it to you, but you have a serious and potentially expensive problem and cannot ignore or delay the work because you simply cannot use a car with dangerously faulty brakes.

  • 3 years ago

    Brake fluid does not have anything to do with the calipers sticking. if the brakes are dragging you either have seized caliper slide pins, rust built up under the metal hardware that the brake pads ride on in the caliper brackets or frozen caliper pistons.

    If you mess with "draining" the brake fluid keep in mind that you may need a $2,000 mechanics scan tool to activate the ABS pump to bleed the system.

    Source(s): Mitsubishi Master Tech
  • 3 years ago

    Fluid should be changed often.

    Any mechanic will do this.

    The caliper needs rebuilding.

  • 3 years ago

    That won't solve the problem and would be a waste of money. If a caliper is sticking it's probably the caliper piston. Calipers can be re-built.

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  • 3 years ago

    9999

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