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Stock 350 with vortec heads and cam?

I have a stock 92 chevy sbc 350 5.7. I want a little more horsepower out of it. I plan on putting on vortec heads, vortec intake manifold, and a cam lifters etc. I just want to know what the best combo would be for that such as the lift of the cam, what lifters, how big of an intake runner, etc and if I can do it with a stock bottom end.

9 Answers

  • 6 years ago
    Favorite Answer

    It already has Vortec heads. Your stock choices are TBI (Throttle body injection), CSFI (Central Sequential Fuel Injection) and MFI (Multiport Fuel Injection). To rate these according to best to worst, MFI, TBI, CSFI. CSFI totally sucks because you can have a leaky injector and have to take the manifold apart just to change and O ring. You can really boost HP by putting a carburetor on it but then it would not be legal. Edelbrock sells high flow TPI (Tuned Port Injection) manifolds for Vortecs. What is nice is that you get some good HP gains and can still use factory fuel injection parts and emission equipment.

    As far as cam and lifters, you may already have those. Many 5.7L engines that were in trucks have roller cams and lifters. Roller cams and lifters last a long time because for the rollers on the lifters. The best bet to start with is the Edelbrock TPI manifold and go from there.

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  • 5 years ago

    This Site Might Help You.


    Stock 350 with vortec heads and cam?

    I have a stock 92 chevy sbc 350 5.7. I want a little more horsepower out of it. I plan on putting on vortec heads, vortec intake manifold, and a cam lifters etc. I just want to know what the best combo would be for that such as the lift of the cam, what lifters, how big of an intake runner, etc and...

    Source(s): stock 350 vortec heads cam:
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  • 6 years ago

    depending on your vehicle and purpose will determine alot. I assume this is a daily driver - alot of good general info from camshaftshaun above.

    Cam choice: this will determine your rpm range and dynamic compression. For a stock motor wanting more power id recommend a smaller cam that will build good cylinder compression, like a xe262, add an intake like a performer rpm, carb, mid-length headers and u will def notice a difference.

    Stock bottom end is ok except for maybe the pistons.. get flat tops (cheap is fine), something around a 214/214 single pattern with duration around 260-280 max. stock bottom end is otherwise fine if in good shape.

    watch your cam lift with stock heads - some circle track fellas make great power with <.450" lift cams.. but wont hurt to cut guides and go up to around .480 either..

    dial your timing in to be all in around 3000 and use the felpro shim gaskets with copper spray on both sides. a 0.040 quench is ideal, using the correct shape pistons with vortec heads will give u a really good burn.

    Dont worry about spending tons of $$ on forged stuff, everything is fine.. even used roller cams will work well - check fleabay. Make sure the lifters and valves move FREELY, even a light brown sheen on valves/lifters can seize something, clean it well and u will have a good running street machine.

    Make sure your exhaust is a single 3" or true dual 2.5's, add an x-pipe and u will gain @ least another 15-30tq.

    Keep valves stock and intake runners stock on heads, no need to go big at all for the street, SMALLER IS FASTER!!

    Stock HEi is also good..

    Get a well tuned carb (rebuilt quadrajet + spacer is gr8) and spend $$ on a custom stall, ask for a 'tight' 2800-3200, it will drive almost like stock until u mash it ;)

    make sure u have good rubber in the back.. search for 400hp backyard build, its a beast combo specd by someone called techinspector1 n hotrodders forum

    • ?6 years agoReport

      edit: I meant ADV duration around 270(intake)/280(exhaust) is a good benchmark for street. Duration around 212/212 - 218/218 is also a good place to start. Cheap cam/lifter kits @ summit. Lsa 110-112.

      Bear in mind more duration will bleed off very valuable cylinder pressure (which u want).

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  • 6 years ago

    First, no 350 made in 1992 was Vortec. Vortec V8's started in 1996. No earlier. No trucks got roller cams until 1996 either. Cars did starting in 1986.

    You need to give us specs here. If this is a 1992 vehicle, it's TBI or TPI, neither of which will it be a matter of simply bolting on the heads.

    I can't answer anymore because I would be wasting my time if this is a carbed application and I addressed some of the EFI issues of converting to Vortec.

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  • 6 years ago

    HP is a non issue anything less than 5252 RPM...Torque's always going to be the bigger number below that.

    There is only ONE manufacturing source in the U.S. for production style lifters. EVERYTHING else comes from Kung-Fu land and is JUNK.

    No offense but the only people in masses that are still buying brand "C" cams are those who don't know much about cams.

    Are you going to converte the heads for screw-in studs and guide plates..? You need to if you plan on any cam that's worth its salt because it's going to need a good valve spring. Once you try springing that head with the press-in studs, the spring pressure combined with a "Real" cam's inertia loading will PROMPTLY yank the press-in studs out.

    Are you going to address the factory valve job..? Right off the assembly line (Even from GMPP) the valve job is at least .002 out-of-round in every one that i have ever checked.

    Need a thin head gasket.

    If you are daily driving this vehicle, then you better care DEEPLY about what you do with cam because it's going to greatly hurt you in the RPM that you spend 99% of your drive time in (1500-2000). And if you hurt your torque in that range you will give up MPG. If you don't care about that then cam at it.

    Same is true for a carb. Put a correctly built Quadrajet on it. (Correctly built begins with SMALL main air bleeds and appropriate jet/metering rods) I'd put a one inch 4-hole carb spacer on.

    Unless you are trying to buzz it 6500+ RPM or are planning a power adder, you will make the most torque and HP with a correctly sized single exhaust and which will also give you good justification for a single pattern cam.

    You don't necessarily need a big seat duration cam, you need a fast opening ramp cam, as you'll get the job done with a LOT less. (That will just add torque to it, as well).

    Are you going to do a leak down test on the engine before you pull heads off..? Makes no sense to throw money at premium performance components if you leak down test and find say 20% leak down going by the rings.

    In almost every case I have seen when people are messing with off the shelf cams OR intake manifolds they are always putting in a lot more than is appropriate and this includes intakes with WAY excessive plenum volume. Excess plenum volume will hurt you and especially hurt when an Automatic trans is in the picture. Same is true for exhaust and also true for cases when people buy aftermarket heads. 90% of the time...LESS is more. It's all about velocity and it's all about valve timing relative to where the piston is in the stroke/cycle, as that's much about how you merry the head to the engine.

    Source(s): Camshaft design/manufacture, full competition race engine building/development, failure analysis of internal engine components, Carb blueprinting, drivability/MPG/durability expert, chem analysis of fuel, super-tuner. I'll help/advise you, make/sell you cams, etc. I'm MUCH too busy to baby-sit you for free. I get MANY emails from Yahoo Answers. A few buyers from here, even. That said, I WILL answer a private email or two, but please don't slam me with endless emails asking endless questions or for me to hold your hand. PLEASE don't ask me to pick a cam for you made by someone else. I make and sell cams, not answer "Can you tell me what size and brand of cam to buy" questions. The only answer is "You can buy one from me, I'll make you one". Cam specs are reserved for buyers only, sorry, as I won't do camshaft homework for shoppers who then buy a non-comparable elsewhere. I'm here to help, aim to please, but don't work for free.
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  • 6 years ago

    Kind of hard to say since you say "a little more horsepower" and put no limits on money. I would say a decent set of headers with an exhaust system would add "a little more horsepower" at a decent price and might even add a little MPG. Otherwise, why not try Comp Cams web site and answer their questions and get their recommendations for cam and valve train? Or go with Edelbrock Performer or Performer RPM equipment?

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  • 3 years ago

    Best Vortec Heads

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  • John
    Lv 7
    6 years ago

    Still an extremely popular engine. It won't take much googling and reviewing magazine racks to find your answers.

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  • Anonymous
    6 years ago

    my best answer is to call summit racing tell them what you have and what you want to achieve and they will tell you the right combination to run

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