Which unit is better . what about the RMS?
The Pioneer says:
Maximum Watts per Channel: 50W x 4
RMS Wattage: 14W x 4
- 50W peak power x 4 channels (22W RMS) for powerful sound
Which is better?
- DA 1-2 BLv 48 years agoFavorite Answer
It depends on what type of features you want. If you plan to get an amp(s) for your audio system, you don't have to worry about the deck RMS. Look for a deck with 3 sets of rca outputs (front, rear, and sub). When looking for an amp match the RMS of the amp(s) as close to the RMS of the speaker as possible. The 4 things I look for is:
1. Brand name (known)
2. THD (Total Harmonic Distortion) should be less then 1%
3. Wattage of amp
4. Ohm load
I know there are other things to look for, but this is what I look at.
I'd say to get your audio items from a authorized dealer, don't purchase from a Dept. store like Walmart.
With an amp(s) you will have more power, cleaner sound (changing speakers is a must), and more flexibility.
With the installation of an amp(s), if you decide to do so, speaker change is a must (IMO) to achieve the full potential of your listening experience.
Speakers....which one do you chose. DO YOUR HOMEWORK!!! There are so many on the market it will get confusing. Check out the authorized dealers in your area and listen to different brands. Keep in mind this is not a 1 day shopping deal. It is more like a couple of months deal of in some cases years.
A lot of people, friends, dealers will tell you what brand to get, don't let them tell you what to buy. Who is listening to the audio, you or them. My point exactly. Like I said "DO YOU HOMEWORK!!!"
Also keep in mind, that it will get expensive. You most likely to change your audio system in pursuit of a good audio system. Once you have found what you are looking for, you will be "tweaking" it forever.
Check these sites out...it is a good reference.
- Also check this out http://www.youtube.com/ and all related videos...Look for the guy in the blue collared shirt. Type “car audio systems” in the search engine. He gives a lot of very good info.
http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/ (a good site to look at to see what you might need, "Car Audio Accessories")
If your headlight dims with the bass notes, the “BIG 3” might work. If not an H.O. alternator will be needed, or else be prepared to pour a lot of $$$ for batteries.
This site explains the "BIG 3" upgrades.
I've designed my car for SQ (Sound Quality) not SPL (Sound Pressure Level) my imaging is very good. The bass sounds as if it is up front and my 12 inch sub (picture as shown) in the trunk. I LOVE how it all worked out.
GOOD LUCK and have fun…
List of items for my ride:
Head Unit: Alpine DVA - 9861
- EpiCenter (by: Audio Control)
- Apex (by: Kove Audio)
- EQ (by: Clarion - EQS746)
Amp: JL Audio 300/4 and 500/1 (constant 800 watts)
Cap: One Rockford Fosgate1 farad Cap
Front: MB Quart 216
Rear: Boston Acoustics (6x9) SX65
Sub: 1 Eclipse 12" Alum. 4 ohm DVC (Dual Voice Coil)
Battery: DieHard AGM Battery, Platinum P-4 - Group Size 34/78DT
Alternator: 200amp, rebuilt
Using a dual ANL fused D-block in the engine bay
1/0 ga wire to D-block (input and output)
- ANL 200 amp fuse (used for H.O. Alternator)
- ANL 300 amp fuse (used for power wire to amp)
- Hyper Ground System (by: Sun Automobile U.S.A. Inc.)
- “BIG 3” upgrade
Thank-you…Source(s): http://www.bcae1.com/ http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/ http://www.caraudio.com/ http://www.termpro.com/ http://forum.sounddomain.com/ http://www.youtube.com/
- Anonymous4 years ago
14 Watts RmsSource(s): https://owly.im/a8Fv6
- doct101Lv 68 years ago
kenwoods arnt cea compliant ... so power isnt much
of a difference .... i like both kenwood and pioneer