92' ranger w/ 94' 2.3 MFI 4cyl, Diagnosis help please!!!?
It is very hard to start when motor is cool, when it does it sputters then dies. then it starts back up with one crank and idles about 300 rpms until you give it some gas, after starting you go to drive then it will sputter a few times and be fine for as long as the motor is still hot or warm. If it has been ran in the past 5 hours or so it will fire right up no problem.
Things to Note: Does not smoke upon starting, The following has been replaced in the last six months: Throttle Position sensor, Idle Air Control valve, Mass Air Flow sensor, O2 sensor, Coolant Temp. sensor, Air Charge Temperature sensor, Electronic Control Module, Fuel Pump, Fuel Filter, Plugs N' Wires.
Every sensor that controls fuel mixter is NEW. I was thinking fuel pressure regulator maybe, seems like its loosing fuel pressure as it sits or maybe getting air in the line some how, have not been able to find ne fuel leaks,
If you have knowledge of these small electronically controlled motors please pass some on, thanks
- cobrajetLv 79 years agoFavorite Answer
Put a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail and see if it's giving the right pressure when it's cold. It could be the regulator. My Mustang had a bad fuel regulator that would sometimes act up on really cold days. The TFI(ignition module) or ignition coil could be giving you problems as well. The TFI is a common part to go bad. Run the codes on it when it's still cold and see what they tell you. You can get a code scanner at any auto parts store.
- LeeLv 69 years ago
If you're sure the IAC isn't bad or dirty and you don't have any vacuum leaks (check all hoses and manifold gaskets w/ carb cleaner), then focus on the fuel. The injectors might be clogged or you could have a bad fuel pump or ECM (I know you changed them already). The pump will run until the pressure reaches the desired level. If you turn your key to ON without starting the engine, you should hear the fuel pump hum for 1-2 seconds. If you don't hear the hum or it lasts longer than that, you could have a bad pump, a leak, or a bad pressure sensor like you suspect.
I would try running the self test function with the diagnostic connector and seeing if you get any codes: http://www.ehow.com/how_7272949_troubleshoot-ford-... You will need a ford OBD I reader.
My best guess is that you have some kind of air leak or sticky injectors that screw up the mixture when the car is in open loop mode while warming up. Once the car is warmed up and in closed loop mode, the oxygen sensor starts working and compensates for the problem.
The IAC valve operates by opening and closing many times per second to control the amount of air entering the engine (it's called pulse width modulation or PWM). Like the fuel injectors, the computer controls it by adjusting the length of time it is open or closed each cycle (this is called duty cycle).
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