Well, those codes do correspond to that wheel;
C0222 Missing Right Front Speed Signal
C0223 Erratic Right Front Speed Sensor
1. Open or short circuit condition
2. Poor electrical connection
3. Faulty wheel speed sensor
4. Faulty EBCM
The thing to do, is follow the wiring back to the EBCM. Disconnect it there, and connect an ohmmeter to the sensor side of the wiring. If you get a reading other than infinite resistance, wiggle the wiring with the ohmmeter still hooked up, and see if it goes open. If you get an open reading right away, go to the shorter sensor lead, and check again there. If that reads continuity, there is a break in the secondary lead. If you get continuity at all times, switch to an AC volt meter at the sensor side of the lead at the EBCM. While spinning the wheel fairly quickly by hand, you should get a reading of about 1/2 volt.
If you do, there may be a problem with the EBCM, or with the connection there. If you do not read AC voltage while spinning the wheel. you may have a 2nd faulty wheel speed sensor, or a sensor that's not properly seated, or some sort of debris between it and the Tone Exciter Ring. The gap between the sensor and ring has to be very precise. Any rust buildup or such on the mounting can hold the sensor too far away, preventing a sufficient voltage from being generated. Likewise, rust debris in the teeth of the ring or sticking to the sensor can prevent a voltage from being generated. or make it very weak.
ASE Certified Tech
I've worked on earlier systems, where you actually had to set a very precise air gap, and also seen ones with rust sticking to the magnet preventing them from working properly, which is much more common with the older open types.