How to breed fire belly toad? (WILL GIVE ALL STARS BEST AWNSER or if it works.......)?
I need help on how to mate them my female is plump so she has eggs and i did`nt feed them much since i got them 5 days ago my male has croaked they went into amplexus but no eggs? Can someone help me best awnser gets Full stars!!!!!!!!!!!
- 1 decade agoFavorite Answer
If given suitable stimuli fire-bellied toads will breed regularly throughout the courtship season, the most critical being a cool rest period for a duration of at least six weeks. It must be understood that only healthy individuals with sufficient body fats should be allowed to fully hibernate (not B.orientalis) and this can be implemented my moving the toads to another escape-proof, ventilated aquarium packed with damp (not sodden) sphagnum moss into which they will burrow. It can then be located in an unheated garage, shed or attic where temperatures do not fall below 35°F. Otherwise the toads can remain in their aqua-vivarium where extra land covered with sphagnum moss should be added, the temperature lowered to around 44°F. and the spot-light switched off. The toads will refuse food and spend most of their time hiding beneath the moss. Following the cool period, raise the water temperature by 1 - 2°F. each day and the switch the spot-light for increasingly longer periods of 10 minutes until the peak temperature and 14 hour photoperiod (daylight) are achieved. During this time the toads will become increasingly more active and hungry. The aquarium containing hibernating toads should initially be located somewhere at room temperature for a few hours and then the toads can be introduced back into the aqua-vivarium when the water temperature has reached about 55°F. For Bombina orientalis, simply lowering the water and air temperature to around 60°F. during the cool period is adequate because these toads are susceptible to low temperatures. Breeding should commence from mid-May particularly immediately after rainfall (which can be simulated by undertaking partial water changes with a fine-rosed watering can) when male toads float on top of the water with all legs splayed out and commence their characteristic calling. In B.variegata this is a slow 'poo-poo' sound lasting for 10 - 25 seconds; B.bombina has a slightly faster 'oop-oop-oop' which can transcend for 30 seconds; B.orientalis sounds like the gentle tapping of a musical triangle - a 'ting-ting' sound which rarely lasts longer than 15 seconds and the call of B.maxima is similar to, but deeper and more resonant than B.variegata. Mating usually commences at nighttime with males grasping the females just in front of the hind limbs, a position known as lumbar amplexus. To aid their grip, males are equipped with rough, horny nuptial pads on the inner thumbs although unresponsive females are inevitably able to squirm their way out. Such is the frenzy that males will often work themselves into, they will accidentally grasp on to anything that looks remotely worth mating with including floating twigs, plants, other anurans, newts, fish and even fingers. Their is nothing more comical in the amphibian world than to observe an unfortunate male make a wrong move and suddenly be besieged by half-a-dozen desperate males. Incidently to promote vigorous breeding in Bombina it is recommended to establish a ratio of one female to two or three males. Another factor in achieving successful amplexus is the perspective of the breeding pond. B.variegata and B.orientalis prefer an open, shallow (2 - 6 inches) pool containing lots of submerged water plants that it is in a very sunny position so that its temperature increases rapidly during the day. B.maxima also appreciates an open pond which has both deep (12 - 18 inches) and shallow regions (ie. a cool to warm gradient of water). B.bombina presents the most difficulties as will often refuse to breed even when seemingly ideal conditions exist. In my own experience a large aquarium which half-shaded, half sunny pool of medium depth (8 - 10 inches) containing cool water and plenty of submerged and surface pond plants such as zebra quills and parrot feathers plant may prove fruitful.Source(s): http://www.amphibian.co.uk/bombina.html
- Anonymous4 years ago
No you will no longer get a wart. I even have 7 fireplace abdomen toad and have had them for a pair of three hundred and sixty 5 days. I p.c.. mine up for extra or less 5 minutes an afternoon and play with them. I even have by no capacity gotten a wart from them.