The see thru scopes do have two problems. The one giving you a bad experience could be the mount itself.
Make sure it is for your model rifle.
Make sure you have the part made for the front mounted at the front. With mount pretty much centered...tightening the mount screws generally brings parts to center.
Could be a manufacturing problem, One mount taller than the other by a few thousandths inch.. Making sighting in to zero impossible.
Or the mount(s) could have been bent accidental in transit from factory to time unit was mounted on firearm.
Or you did not tighten a screw and each shot is landing other than where intended due to loose parts. Or even tightened one set of screws tighter than the set on the other mount.
Or perhaps installed a shim under the wrong base?
But one thing for sure.
The see thru mounts are built with a supposed convince in mind. Not brute strength.
The second problem with see thru scope mounts is that you have good "cheek weld", cheek placement on butt stock with iron sights which helps shooting accurately.
The scope becomes secondary, either an afterthought for use if game is to far to shoot with iron sights accurately..
The other part to this problem is in using the scope to sight/aim, shoot your firearm. You have to raise your cheek off the stock to view thu your scope which leads to shooting poorly. Accuracy suffers.
Doing this at the range may be allowing your rifle to wander with each shot.
The only good thing with a see thru sight is shooting accurately with iron sights, generally in a supposed emergency when suddenly a fierce animal attacks you! Or if you have stalked your prey animal to be close enough you can use iron sights to shoot accurately!
In my books a see thru scope mount set up is stuff I tried then retired because I thought I could use unit to maximum effect.
I actually did install a remove able cheek piece. Off to shoot well with iron sights. On to shoot well with scope. Was a hassle to find one that fit and was easily installed/removed. And out in my hunting grounds it got wet, and something I had to deal with before shooting game for my freezer.
I recommend replacing unit with another if store will let you upon explaining problem.
Or take to gunsmith and have them check it out. I would recommend telling them to remove mount. Clean, Inspect. Remount. Then check with optical collimator or shoot.
Most kills when hunting is done as close as a few yards (scarey!) out to 200-250 yards I would recommend a scope such as a 1x4x20 or 2x7x32 or 3x9x40.. Keep the scope set at lowest magnification always as finding game up close is so exciting and sometimes unexpected, like buck fever instantly! With game far away you will have more time to enjoy, savor the hunt and then crank up the magnification to see, aim and place shot accurately.
Weaver style bases and mounts I believe are preferable
.You can remove scope quickly by turning large screws. Remounting the scope brings you back to within an inch or two of zero at 100 yards.
The so called standard bases I believe are the best.
They are made rugged. And are almost indestructible
The one advantage is in sighting in the new scope the first time.
With a optical collimator installed,
Or with a bolt action rifle, remove bolt, place rifle on a rest. look inside bore and center on target then:
Use the rear base to set wind age.. the center vertical part of crosshair. Tighten screws.
At the range shoot at the center of paper targets first at close ranges, say 25 yards..
Again use the wind age adjustment built into the rear base to shoot to center.
When satisfactory, move target out by twice as much. Ie. 25 yards or paces to 50.
When satisfied move out to 100 yards to fine tune bullet placement to exact center still using rear scope base wind age adjustment.
Setting wind age in this manner does several things for you.
One is you are keeping the internal optical components set at optical center. Makes for much better viewing especially early mornings and at sunset low light conditions.
(Turning the dials built on a scope tube the optical elements making light travel not in a straight line but offset to one side internally. And being able to shoot dead center each time is easier to do with the optical elements centered. Difficult to do with scope internals so skewed off center.)
I did not mention adjusting the elevation knob on the scope itself. Do this if bullet lands way off center on paper target. If it is not to far off, like a few inches. leave alone till target is moved farther away. Reasoning is when set at close range, firearm will shoot higher the farther your target is at!
And if you forgot is a really big source of frustration and a supposed equipment problem, like cheap scope, bum mounts, iknow these were not good bullets., etc.
And making scope adjustments.
Sometimes the bullet lands on paper target in the wrong d