Arra asked in PetsReptiles · 1 decade ago

Everything I need to know about caring for a leopard gecko?

I am thinking about getting a leopard gecko but I never owned a lizard but my friend has a bearded dragon and she says they are cool. So how on earth do I take care of it? food, heat, and all the other stuff.

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  • Anonymous
    1 decade ago
    Favorite Answer

    Caging

    A 10- to 20-gallon aquarium houses one or two leopard geckos from hatchling to adult size. Larger tanks tend to cause the geckos to stray away from their proper heat and hide box. Although visibility is reduced, many people use plastic storage boxes as housing. Any cage you choose should be at least 1 foot tall. Be sure to have a secure screen top on your gecko cage that will support a light fixture, provide good ventilation and keep out bothersome cats.

    A hide box filled with moist moss or vermiculite is needed, so your leopard gecko can shed its skin properly. This secure setting also is needed for egg laying if you plan on breeding geckos.

    Live or artificial plants can be added for a nice decorative touch.

    Lighting and Temperature

    The best way to heat your leopard gecko is by using an undertank heating pad or tape. These are available at any pet store or online. Heating one end of the cage is best. This allows for a temperature variation that your lizard needs. Heat rocks tend to become too hot for leopard geckos and should be avoided due to the risk of burns.

    For viewing, a simple low-wattage light can be placed overhead on the screen-cage top and left on 12 hours a day.

    Because leopard geckos are active at night (notice their vertical pupils), they do not need to bask under a special UVB light.

    Albino leopard geckos are light-sensitive for the first few months of their lives, but they do fine as a pet.

    The ideal temperature in the hide box is 86 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit at all times. The ambient air temperature of the room they are housed in should be above 73 degrees.

    Substrate

    Newspaper, pea gravel, artificial turf, flat stones or no floor covering are OK. A young or debilitated leopard gecko might consume sand or fine-particle products on the cage floor, and this could lead to intestinal impaction.

    Leopard geckos actually have a "bathroom" in one corner of their cages, and that area can be spot-cleaned without disrupting the entire system.

    Do not expose your gecko to commercial plant soils or sands that may contain fertilizer or pesticides

    Food

    Live insects are a must for your gecko; they do not eat plants or veggies. The best items to use are mealworms or crickets, but you can treat your pet to waxworms or superworms once a week if you wish. We have used regular mealworms (Tenebrio molitor) without health issues for since 1978. Avoid feeding leopard geckos pinky mice.

    All insects must be first given a nutritious powdered diet for at least 12 hours before being fed to your leopard gecko. This process is called “gut loading,” and it is very important to the health of your pet. Chick or hog mash is available at all feed stores, and several good commercial diets are available for this purpose, as well. Simply place the insects in a tub of gut-load diet with a piece of potato to serve as a source of water.

    Dusting your insects is one way to deliver important vitamins and minerals to your leopard gecko. Insects and the dusting powder can be placed in a plastic bag or deep tin can, and shook gently to coat the insects’ bodies. When adding the dusted insects to the cage, be sure not to let the powder get into a gecko’s eyes.

    Another way to give the extra powdered supplements to your gecko is to keep a small jar lid filled with vitamin-mineral powder at all times. The gecko knows how much its body needs, and it will lick up the powder accordingly.

    Keepers can offer two appropriately sized insects for every inch of a leopard gecko’s total length. A meal every other day is fine. Therefore, a 4-inch-long gecko would receive eight mealworms three to four times a week

    It is normal for leopard geckos to eat their shed skin

    Water

    A shallow water dish with fresh water must be available at all times. It should also be stable, so it cannot be spilled. Cage substrate should be kept dry, so be careful about spillage. Make sure that young and adult leopard geckos can climb easily out of the dish you use. Vitamin drops should not be added to the water.

    Handling and Temperament

    In general, do not handle leopard geckos on a regular basis until they settle in and are more than 6 inches in total length. Once your gecko is large enough, it is best to sit on the floor, and let your gecko crawl through loose fingers and hand-over-hand for 10 to 15 minutes per day until they are accustomed to your touch. This taming process takes only five to seven days. Never grab or hold the gecko’s tail, or it might be dropped. Often the tail regenerates in less than 40 days

    Hope I could help!!!

    Source(s): work at vet clinic
  • 1 decade ago

    Take a look at http://leopardgeckocare.net . Basically, have a good-sized tank (10 is adequate; 20L or bigger is better), a heat pad on a thermostat set to about 90*F, tile or paper towel substrate, at LEAST two hides (more is better), and crickets/mealworms/roaches for food... If you or your friend isn't squeamish, Dubia Roaches are easy to breed and make great feeders for Bearded Dragons and Leopard Geckos alike!

    Also, just a side note... I don't know anything about how your friend is caring for her bearded dragon, but it seems all too often people mistreat them. Have her take a look at http://beautifuldragons.com and http://beardeddragon.org to make sure she's doing things right and her beardie stays happy and healthy. I've seen first hand what unintentionally bad care can do to a beardie, and it's not pretty... Not to mention very expensive to fix..

    Good luck! =)

  • 1 decade ago

    leopard geckos need a least a 10 gallon more space would be fine.then u need the heatpad under the the tank.make sure it keeps the warm side at 88-91.belly heat is important for them no light is needed.feeding them is simple babies need feeding every day give them as much crickets as they can eat in 10-15 mins but only limit to 9 or under.adults need every other day but 9 crickets are fine 10 is also fine.gutload your crickets with the cricket food. dust the crickets every week for young ones with vitman d3 adults every 2 weeks. one water dish one calcium dish with the vit d3 and one cool hide and warm hide.mist them every 4 days shedding 2 days. no sand for leopard geckos. good luck =]

    Source(s): own leos
  • 4 years ago

    No, i doesn't recommend utilising any type of sand or particle substrate, some thing that could want to be swallowed. As already said it would want to reason impaction, fairly in youthful geckos, which will nicely be deadly. Leos like licking issues to look into them and can want to by coincidence ingest smaller gadgets truly actually. demanding ceramic tile is tremendous bottom cloth for leos. you'll get it for truly low-cost at truly a lot any hardware/living house progression keep. they are going to typically reduce it on your specs besides, so it suits snugly on your tank. Tile keeps warmth truly nicely, meaning the gecko will receives a lot of large abdomen warmth, and that's truly straightforward to bathe. Leos typically bypass in a particular section, so that you would possibly want to easily positioned some paper towel down there to make cleansing even easier.

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