Can I use cinder block as skirting on my manufactures home?
I want to replace the plastic skirt on my manufactured home with cinder blocks one because it is stronger and two because it will last longer. My question is can I set the cinder blocks without concrete foundation since it will only be about 3 feet tall. Should I use a rock bed maybe? And if I do need to lay a foundation how thick should it need to be? A future plan to raise the ground level is also on the scope will this be a problem?
Thanks for helping.
- thewrangler_swLv 71 decade agoFavorite Answer
Yes, you can, but there are other alternatives to eliminating the plastic skirt.
If all you need is a skirting, and not perimeter support, you can build a wood frame and attach cement board (facing it with brick or stone veneer, for example) to give it a nice look. I know you can also get panels that look like a poured cement wall, but they're sheet-stock, like the cement board. Hardiboard is another choice as is NovaBrik.
I would go ahead and pour a footer, just to have the option of stacking something heavy on it later, even if I chose not to do it right away. It will make it easier to install whatever you choose right now (by providing a level surface to work from).
Depending on where you live, you may want to pour to below the frost line, and go ahead and add the re-bar. I would pour it so that it is at least ground level, especially since you mention raising the grade later, you may want to go ahead and pour it so that it will be closer to the desired grade level.
Most manufacturers require perimeter support at any entry door, or opening over 4 ft (sliding doors for example) - most dealerships, in my experience, don't bother to install them, because it would mean pouring more concrete. If a manufacturer wants to get picky, they can void the warranty for an improper set up. Therefore, while I was at pouring a footer, I would go ahead and install the support stacks near the entry doors, as required by the manufacturer. If you have the owner's manual to your home, it should tell you how the manufacturer requires your model of home to be set up.
I've seen a lot of alternatives over the years to vinyl perimeter skirting, including the plastic stone, stone/brick veneer, dry stacked blocks (low to the ground, only a couple of rows), dry stacked with stucco, cement board, Hardiboard, wood... all kinds of things. Think about what you want to do now, and what you want to do later. Its better to plan ahead, and prepare now, for what you want later, than to have to come back later, and rip everything out because you have to start over.
Don't forget to leave easy access to the underside of the home, hehehe. You don't want to have to crawl from one end of the home to the other, to repair a leak. Also, don't forget about cross ventilation - another requirement of the manufacturer, you NEED the ventilation under the home to keep the moisture level down. By the way - this is an excellent time to install a vapor barrier, if you don't already have one.
- 1 decade ago
Here's the thing you will need some type of footing, other wise the block could sink or settle into the ground, and become crooked or leaning, so you will need a footing. Cause your going 3 feet high that's 4 blocks high 8", so you will also need 4 foot re bar. Now if your not planning on the house sitting on the wall, Cause then your mobile home would become what is called modeler home. But you can set the cinder block on top of each other to remove the skirting, I would stagger the end joints, as you would do if you were using mortar, I would use re bar 4 foot long pieces, these you can get at Home Depot. I would drive them in the ground so they keep the block in place, use them in the inside corners of the blocks opposite ends from each other, then with your footing crushed stone, unless you wanted to do cement. you'll need to figure out how much area the block are going to sit on, I would dig 6 inches deep try and pack the stone and use sand as fill, use a hand tamper, then set your block start with you corners first then just run your courses of block to the corners. your also going to put a Access door so if you need to fix your plumbing you'll need a way under the trailer, another thing is depending on where you live, check local codes with your Building Department at your City Hall. They have some good Mason books at Home Depot, some good reading, the books will show you pictures of the cement footings. Good luckSource(s): On the Job Learning 29 years in building trades.
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- FixitLv 41 decade ago
Since I do not know what your circumstance is, I can not tell you if you can use cinder block or not. I can tell you that code would require you to dig a footer if you are going to do it. The footer would need to be 12" wide X 16" deep with 2 #4 rebar running the length of it. And you would have to use mortar between each block. If building it to code is not a concern for you, the following may be: If you do decide to build the wall, at least put some type of footer under it. Maybe a 12" wide by 4" deep footer. If you use rock, the cinder blocks will eventually lean over and fall down. They are not designed to be used in that manner.
My suggestion would be to make your skirting out of Hardiboard, and secure it with plastic lumber. email me if you need more details.Source(s): I have owned 2 manufactured homes
- bondLv 71 decade ago
Concrete block are often used for skirting around here. It is durable and looks good. You at least need a 4 inch thick slab or base of concrete or the block joints will be all cracked up in a short time. I see mobile homes here set on a 4 inch slab with the blocks set up directly on the slab with no problems. Frost is not a major issue because it is the weight of the blocks only, not supporting the home.
- 4 years ago
cinder block skirting manufactures home
- Anonymous1 decade ago
there are way better ways to skirt a manufactured home than cement blocks...if you dry stack them on the ground they will either fall over , sink or if you live where it freezes, may raise up your home when the frost leaves the ground in the spring...so you would need a footer poured below the frost line and blocks laid up to ground level, which is cheaper than filling a ditch with concrete...then blocks laid up under your home...way too expensive in my book...
- 4 years ago
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