Drywall screws and drywall nails will finish out better. Using a nailer works, but not if you are planning on taping it. (the heads will stick out too much)
You don't need a special drill, (although pros use them) just buy a "dimpling" bit; and put it on a regular, or cordless drill. The screws need to be slightly countersunk, but not breaking the paper.
Typically, you nail the edges every 7". The nails should be sunk, but not breaking the paper. Try not to mash the edges. The screws are for the "field", about 10" apart. The sheets cross the studs, joists, or trusses, keeping the tapered edges together. With both the screws and nails, they should be sunk enough that they will not "click" when you run a 6" taping knife across them.
A roofing coil nailer might be faster, but I am assuming you will have to rent it, and a compressor. So, more expensive.
You will also need a utility knife, a 6" Sur-Form (for smoothing cut edges), and a keyhole saw (for cutting out around electrical boxes, etc.)
P.S. Everyone: There is a type of drywall that is used on the outside of a building under the siding and paper. We do use a nailer for that
Journeyman carpenter, 20 years experience