I want to get a leopard gecko, can anyone give me everything there is to know about them?
If anyone could give me everything there is to know about the leopard gecko that would be great!
I would also like to know the costs of the animals themselves and what the supplies and food cost.
If you could give me information on what type of supplies is good to buy and food too, that would be great as well.
Ball Python, could you recommend any books?
- Anonymous1 decade agoFavorite Answer
The leopard gecko itself will have a huge price range - it all depends upon which 'morph' you buy. If you go for just a "normal" then it should be very cheap! :)
Whereas special breeds can be very expensive!
As for housing, I'd recommend a glass terrarium. Most people use wooden vivarium, but I find that glass is much easier to clean and looks much nicer! Leopard gecko's aren't really climbers, and so you don't need a tall tank at all! Floor space is the key thing to go for, bigger is better for them to roam around. (If you're getting a baby and you do get a large viv, section of some off it as too much space as a baby can cause stress and feeding problems if you're using crickets)
It's a very large terrarium (50 gallon) but you can go as small as 20gal. But remember, more floor space will be preferred!
Inside the terrarium you will need one end to be warm, as leo's absorb the heat through their underside. The best way to achieve this is by using an heat mat underneath the tank at one end. (lighting is not required, but can be used to raise the air temperature)
The floor temperature in the warm end should be between 85F - 92F. Anywhere between would be optimum for energy and digestion.
You should use a digital thermometer with a probe, as these are accurate enough!
You should have at least two or three hides in there for your gecko. One in the warm end and one in the cool end. This enables your gecko to feel secure when he/she needs to cool down or warm up.
A third hide should also be provided near the warm end, with some moist sphagnum moss/wet paper towels inside - this creates a humid hide which will aid your gecko in shedding its' skin.
Food can be crickets, locust, mealworms, silkworms and waxworms can be given as treats as they are high in fat. If you use worms, it's good to use a dish from which they can't escape. They ensures that they don't hide/burrow in the tank. Food should be dusted will a calcium supplement a few times per week as this aids bone growth. These live insects are generally quite cheap to buy :)
As a substrate, you can use many things!
Accepted ones are reptile carpet (not normal carpet, they can catch their nails in it!) paper towels and slate tiles. Sand is a very debated one, as it can cause impaction, which occurs when the sand is ingested and cannot be digested, thus blocking the system. However, I've never had a problem with sand and I've used it for 7 years! (I use a mixture of sand and slate tiles now)
You should provide a suitable water dish, in which the gecko is not at risk of drowning in. Water should be replaced every day (even though they won't be seen drinking it a lot!). You can buy supplements to add to the water which removes heavy metals and chlorine and adds calcium.
Hope this has helped :D
[EDIT: Ignore the post below! In 7 years my gecko has never bitten me! They are very relaxed and friendly gecko's. They are not aggressive whatsoever. You are best off only getting one, as they are solitary creatures by nature. They do not climb walls at all, they can just about manage trees, they have claws, not pads. Also, they are not to be kept in a humid environment! They're from the middle-east where it is very hot and dry :)
X-Pert - are you sure you're not talking about Tokay Gecko's?]Source(s): Owner
- 1 decade ago
Entire books are written about leopard geckos. There is a lot you have to know; enclosure size, supplementation, lighting, UV supplements, heating, photoperiods, how much to feed at what age, what insects are healthy/not healthy for the gecko, etc, etc, etc. Owning a reptile, even one as simple as a leopard gecko, is a huge responsibility. Never purchase a reptile without doing thorough research. Before I got my first reptile (a snake), I researched for twelve months. There is a lot to know about reptiles, and their care can get quite complicated.
In short, no. Nobody can tell you everything you need to know. Via Google, you can research leopard gecko care sheets. However, unless you read many many care sheets, I highly suggest you invest in a book or two specifically about leopard gecko care.
Good luck! Reptiles are amazing pets, but at the same time, very complicated pets. You must know everything there is to know before you invest in a reptile.
- kouneliLv 71 decade ago
20 gallon long tank with lid
UVB light fixture
Heat lamp on one side of tank
Under the Tank heater on same side
Water dish on other side
hiding spot (half log or something similar)
Moist moss for under hiding spot
cage carpet for babies (6" and under)
Calcium Carbonate sand (6" and up)
Container for live crickets
Food for live crickets (carrot/potato/greens/fish flake work ok too)
Water for live crickets (comes in a gel form...not a dish of water)
Calcium dust for live crickets before you put them in cage for gecko to eat
small ceramic/plastic dish for mealworms to be fed to gecko (make sure they can't climb out)
I believe that's it....as far as supplies go
- 4 years ago
You don’t need to exercise for long periods of time. Short, sharp sets of exercise will produce better results if you work hard. Get a missing rope, skip for two minutes, do push ups for a minute or so, skip for two minutes, rest for starters minute. Then change the push up to something else like sit ups along with do the set again. Repeat it five times and it’s a quick, effective workout that will advance results than a long function or swim.
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- eklovLv 43 years ago
What you want... 20 gallon tank lengthy guard lid warm conceal, cool conceal, humid conceal strong substrate jointly with paper towel water dish, mealworm dish, calcium dish warmth mat with thermostat thermometers (or only one in case you get a laser one) calcium airborne dirt and mud (I pretty advise Miner-All Indoor) viewing gentle is non-obligatory....in case you get a viewing gentle, get a 2.0 UVB or universal fluorescent gentle bulb from abode depot/lowe's make certain you've a separate warm section and funky section. Feed a mixture of a few of accurate the following...dubia roaches, crickets, mealworms, phoenix worms, SMALL quantity of waxworms as a manage is high-quality yet no longer necessary. What I do with my geckos to have interaction is open the front of the cage (sliding doors at the front) and enable my leopard geckos to come back out onto my hand on their own distinct the time. until eventually i'm checking on them health-smart or cleansing their cage, I hardly "grab" them. for sure, it is going to take time for a toddler to get used to you. I then enable them climb anyplace they want on me. Up my arm and on the shoulder is the position they want to loaf round frequently. I also breed mine, so I do improve them to analyze the girls human beings' bellies for eggs.
- 1 decade ago
Leopard Gecko's come in colors brown, black, white, and beige. They are cool looking pets ,but be careful. They are highly aggressivee. They bite like crazy, and it hurts. It is best to get around two or three of them. I think a pretty neat thing about them is that they climb walls. Keep them in a humid environment, and maintain their clean environment. The best thing to feed them is crickets. Hope it helps. =->Source(s): I used to have one ,but they almost tore a hole in my hand, so i got rid of it.
- 4 years ago
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