The leopard gecko itself will have a huge price range - it all depends upon which 'morph' you buy. If you go for just a "normal" then it should be very cheap! :)
Whereas special breeds can be very expensive!
As for housing, I'd recommend a glass terrarium. Most people use wooden vivarium, but I find that glass is much easier to clean and looks much nicer! Leopard gecko's aren't really climbers, and so you don't need a tall tank at all! Floor space is the key thing to go for, bigger is better for them to roam around. (If you're getting a baby and you do get a large viv, section of some off it as too much space as a baby can cause stress and feeding problems if you're using crickets)
I use this - http://www.exo-terra.com/download/high_res/products/images/PT-2613_Glass_Terrarium_Filled.jpg
It's a very large terrarium (50 gallon) but you can go as small as 20gal. But remember, more floor space will be preferred!
Inside the terrarium you will need one end to be warm, as leo's absorb the heat through their underside. The best way to achieve this is by using an heat mat underneath the tank at one end. (lighting is not required, but can be used to raise the air temperature)
The floor temperature in the warm end should be between 85F - 92F. Anywhere between would be optimum for energy and digestion.
You should use a digital thermometer with a probe, as these are accurate enough!
You should have at least two or three hides in there for your gecko. One in the warm end and one in the cool end. This enables your gecko to feel secure when he/she needs to cool down or warm up.
A third hide should also be provided near the warm end, with some moist sphagnum moss/wet paper towels inside - this creates a humid hide which will aid your gecko in shedding its' skin.
Food can be crickets, locust, mealworms, silkworms and waxworms can be given as treats as they are high in fat. If you use worms, it's good to use a dish from which they can't escape. They ensures that they don't hide/burrow in the tank. Food should be dusted will a calcium supplement a few times per week as this aids bone growth. These live insects are generally quite cheap to buy :)
As a substrate, you can use many things!
Accepted ones are reptile carpet (not normal carpet, they can catch their nails in it!) paper towels and slate tiles. Sand is a very debated one, as it can cause impaction, which occurs when the sand is ingested and cannot be digested, thus blocking the system. However, I've never had a problem with sand and I've used it for 7 years! (I use a mixture of sand and slate tiles now)
You should provide a suitable water dish, in which the gecko is not at risk of drowning in. Water should be replaced every day (even though they won't be seen drinking it a lot!). You can buy supplements to add to the water which removes heavy metals and chlorine and adds calcium.
Hope this has helped :D
[EDIT: Ignore the post below! In 7 years my gecko has never bitten me! They are very relaxed and friendly gecko's. They are not aggressive whatsoever. You are best off only getting one, as they are solitary creatures by nature. They do not climb walls at all, they can just about manage trees, they have claws, not pads. Also, they are not to be kept in a humid environment! They're from the middle-east where it is very hot and dry :)
X-Pert - are you sure you're not talking about Tokay Gecko's?]
· 1 decade ago