tips I have:
1. Layout the backerboard and cut in before you mortar it down or nail it down. Mix the mortar very well, it should be at the consistency where you can drop a bit on the floor and it will not be runny.
2. Before you lay the concrete backer board (hardiboard) down, you need to push mortar into the wood subfloor (if it is wood) with the flat side of the trowel, then, add more mortar and use a 3/8 inch trowel notch to spread the mortar on the floor.
3. Put the backerboard down, press into the mortar, and put nails every 6-8 inches throughout the board. If you have a pneumatic gun of any type it will suffice. You want to sink the nail heads, but not dimple the backerboard
4. You want to do the same steps for laying the tile. Map out your flor plan, either in your head and with a tape measure. or actually lay a few rows of tile out. You don"t want to get to a wall and have a 1/4" filler piece all down the wall.
5. Then push the mortar into the backer board with the flat side of the trowel, before using the notched side.
6. Start slow and get a row going in each direction to keep the floor square.
7. You want to put the tile about 1/2" out of where you want them to lay and then push them into the mortar, to fill the crevases on the tile backing.
8. Use tile spacers, you can get them at any Lowe's, Home Depot, etc. The bigger the tile, usually the bigger the groutline, but it is personal taste.
9. With smaller tile, you can make an uneven floor look more even. The bigger the tile, the quicker the job will go (common sense).
10. consistently wipe the excess mortar out of the groutlines as you go, it will make grouting alot easier.
11. When you get ready to grout, wipe all the tile down with a damp sponge. Get oversized grouting sponges from Lowe's. Let the tile dry for atleast 12 hours, if not more. You can pop up an uneven tile that is not completely dry.
12. Mix the grout to a consistency that is slightly runnier than the mortar.
13. Depending on the size of the floor you may want to grout a section at a time.
14. Try to grout the lines, do not grout the entire floor, and tops of the tile. It makes clean up harder and wastes considerable amounts of grout.
15. You do not want to wipe all the excess grout off in one washing. Instead, after the grout begins to haze on the tiles, wipe off the majority of the excess grout, but concentrate on making sure the grout lines are even and do not have gaps, this will be your last time to fix them.
16. When the tile hazes again, wipe with a damp sponge a second time, this time getting more of the face of the tile clean, and making sure the grout is drying nicely.
17. It hazes again, the third time you wash, be very light with the strokes of the sponge, trying to clean the face of the tile. Just to get rid of the haze.
18. Let the grout dry over night. The next day you can mop it with a light soap and hot water mix. I suggest using a sponge mop. Let this dry.
19. The following day, or anytime after, you can seal the grout. BUT, before you seal the grout make sure you got all the haze off the tile. If there is still haze on the tile that will not wash off with soap and water. Mix one gallon of white vinegar with one gallon of hot water, mix and scrub the floor. This should get rid of the remaining haze. Then seal
I hope this helps, I have done hundreds of tile floors, feel free to email me with any questions.