TOP SECERT asked in PetsReptiles · 1 decade ago

10 points help me please Iguana experts?

i need all the info for iguanas

Update:

no wiki allowed i need pet info and no google

7 Answers

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  • 1 decade ago
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    Common Name:Green Iguana

    Latin name: Iguana iguana

    Native to: Central and South America. Imported iguanas are generally from Columbia, El Salvador, Honduras, Peru, Mexico, and Surinam.

    Size: Adult iguanas range in size from four to six feet in length.

    Life span: If properly cared for, iguanas should live more than 20 years in captivity.

    Special Note: While many people consider the green iguana a beginners pet, nothing is further from the truth. Iguanas require specialized care and management that is generally beyond the knowledge of most novices. It is because of this lack of knowledge that a majority of juvenile iguanas die prematurely. Iguana owners need to be aware of the specialized diet and housing requirements that the green iguana requires. If looking for a great beginner reptile or amphibian pet, consider a corn snake, milk snake, ball python, leopard gecko, bearded dragon, or pac man frog. All of these species are fun and a great way to begin in the hobby!

    General appearance: Iguanas are what most people think of when they think "lizard." They have five toes on each foot. They posses a fleshy flap of skin under the chin called a dewlap. All iguanas have spines that run the length of the back. Contrary to popular belief, not all iguanas are green. Most juveniles are bright green, but as they age and grow they can range in color from a dull green to brown or even orange with striped tails.

    Housing requirements:

    Enclosure: The enclosure for an adult iguana is very large. The enclosure should be at least six feet tall, about 1½ to twice the length of the iguana, and 2/3 to one full length of the iguana wide. For a six foot adult iguana, this is an enclosure that is 9 to 12 feet long, four to six feet wide, and at least six feet tall. Sufficient branches and shelves for climbing and lounging should also be provided. To give you perspective on the size of the enclosure, most small bedrooms are only 9 feet wide. This is why many owners dedicate a separate room as their "iguana room." Some owners also allow their iguanas to "free range" throughout the house. If you allow your iguana to live in its own room or free range, be sure the keep the area the iguana will frequent free of small objects that the iguana may accidentally ingest.

    Temperature: Iguanas come from a tropical climate and need to be kept warm. Daytime temperatures should be 80° - 85° F with a basking spot of 90° - 95° F. There should be a range of temperatures offered to the iguana to allow it to thermoregulate itself. Nighttime temperatures should be 75° - 80° F. All temperatures should be verified with a thermometer regularly.

    Heat/Light: Ultraviolet lighting providing UVA and UVB is required for proper calcium metabolism and skeletal development. Without the proper lighting your will become sick and die a very painful death. Proper lighting can be provided utilizing fluorescent tubes specially made for use by reptiles as well as mercury vapor bulbs that also provide some heat as well. Additional heat can be provided utilizing infrared ceramic emitters and incandescent basking bulbs. Hot rocks should never be used under any circumstance as they can severely burn your iguana.

    Substrate: Iguanas will often tongue lick their surroundings. Because of this most particulate substrate (wood shavings, mulch, sand, or powder types) are not appropriate for most iguanas. Newspaper with non-toxic ink, butcher's paper, paper towels, indoor/outdoor carpeting, or artificial grass all make excellent choices. If using indoor/outdoor carpeting or artificial grass please be sure that there are no dangling strings that could tangle in your iguana's nails. It's also recommended that you have multiple pieces so that you may replace the soiled pieces with the clean set and then clean and disinfect the current set to use for the next cleaning.

    Environment: Iguanas come from a tropical climate and require a humidity level of 65% to 75%. To achieve this may require several mistings a day. Many people opt to purchase an automatic misting system instead.

    Diet: Iguanas are strict herbivores. Many older literatures will suggest feeding animal protein or even cat food. While some wild iguanas may ingest the occasional insect while eating leaves, it is not a significant portion on their diet. Iguanas that are fed too much animal protein will develop health problems and will die prematurely. A well balanced iguana diet will consist of about 40% to 45% greens (this includes, but is not limited to collard greens, turnip greens, mustard greens, dandelion greens (with flowers), escarole, and/or water cress), 40% to 45% other vegetables (this includes but is not limited to green beans, orange-fleshed squashes (butternut, Kabocha), snap or snow peas, parsnip, asparagus, okra, alfalfa (mature, not sprouts), onions, mushrooms, bell peppers, sweet potato, zucchini, yellow squash, and/or carrots), 10% or less of fruits

    hope this helps you!

    I have owned one that was 6 feet, he was an awesome iguana!

    But I had to get rid of him. He bitt me during mating season, and tore my hand up. It was crazy.

    But I still miss him!

    But good luck!

    Source(s): Experienced, long time iguana owner. Great pets! and easily trained mine is litter box trained.
  • 1 decade ago

    While others give you information typed from the internet ... heres what I'm going to tell you

    Iguanas can get to 5-6ft depending on sex, some may actually never grow that long due to loss of tail, either from getting scared and dropping or surgically needed removed due to health issues. If given the proper care they can live 15-20yrs. Iguanas need a large living space (6-7ft tall x 8-10ft long x 4ft wide), some free roam. Information on iguanas have changed from 5-10years ago. Many people thought that feeding there iguanas crickets, cat/dog food, was all good, but actually it wasn't. Some people today still follow what they thought years ago, which leads the iguana to dieing a lot faster then it should. Males may become sexually mature once they reach 6inches SVL. Females will usually take a bit longer, and will not mature until they reach about 10inches SVL. You can tell the sex by the pores on the inner thigh/leg part. Some also show signs of sex by the fat pads on the back of the head, large jaw muscles on either side of the lower jaw below the ear. Males have large blocky heads, and the jowls add to this effect. Males also have two fatty deposits on their forheads, behind the eye and above the ear. Females heads are smaller and more streamlined, and lack the fatty deposits behind the eyes and the more pronounced jowls. Females when they become 10inches SVL can become gravid/egging. They need to have the space, climbing access and a nesting box, which some people do not understand that a tank does not give that space. The eggs in her belly can get ruptured which can kill the iguana if properly not seen by a vet. Some females will become gravid w/out male iguanas help, the eggs will just not be fertile. Iguanas can get liver failure, kidney failure, other issues. The main health issue for iguanas due to poor diet, poor care, poor UVB is Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD). Iguanas carry Salmonella. Every iguana is different in personality, some things may work for others but not others. Some iguanas will tolerate humans, others will not. Some iguanas males or females, will be somewhat tolerate of the human owner, some will be very aggressive. Many iguanas are in shelters due to the owner not understanding the iguana, not knowing the proper care, not having the time for the iguana anymore, many reasons you name it it could possibly be.

    Didn't go into the UVB, or food. Hope this helped.

    Sites for you to read:

    http://www.greenigsociety.org/ - http://www.iguanaden.org/ - http://www.anapsid.org/iguana/index.html

    A great book to read and have on hand:

    Iguanas for Dummies by Melissa Kaplan

    Yahoo has some great sites for Iguana owners... these groups helped me and still help w/ questions .. if you'd like to join:

    http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/BabyIguana/ - http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/IguanaDen/

    Source(s): - Iguana owner
  • Anonymous
    1 decade ago

    Central and South America. Imported iguanas are generally from Columbia, El Salvador, Honduras, Peru, Mexico, and Surinam.

    Adult iguanas range in size from four to six feet in length.

    If properly cared for, iguanas should live more than 20 years in captivity.

    While many people consider the green iguana a beginners pet, nothing is further from the truth. Iguanas require specialized care and management that is generally beyond the knowledge of most novices. It is because of this lack of knowledge that a majority of juvenile iguanas die prematurely. Iguana owners need to be aware of the specialized diet and housing requirements that the green iguana requires. If looking for a great beginner reptile or amphibian pet, consider a corn snake, milk snake, ball python, leopard gecko, bearded dragon, or pac man frog. All of these species are fun and a great way to begin in the hobby!

    Iguanas are what most people think of when they think "lizard." They have five toes on each foot. They posses a fleshy flap of skin under the chin called a dewlap. All iguanas have spines that run the length of the back. Contrary to popular belief, not all iguanas are green. Most juveniles are bright green, but as they age and grow they can range in color from a dull green to brown or even orange with striped tails.

    The enclosure for an adult iguana is very large. The enclosure should be at least six feet tall, about 1½ to twice the length of the iguana, and 2/3 to one full length of the iguana wide. For a six foot adult iguana, this is an enclosure that is 9 to 12 feet long, four to six feet wide, and at least six feet tall. Sufficient branches and shelves for climbing and lounging should also be provided. To give you perspective on the size of the enclosure, most small bedrooms are only 9 feet wide. This is why many owners dedicate a separate room as their "iguana room." Some owners also allow their iguanas to "free range" throughout the house. If you allow your iguana to live in its own room or free range, be sure the keep the area the iguana will frequent free of small objects that the iguana may accidentally ingest.

    Iguanas come from a tropical climate and need to be kept warm. Daytime temperatures should be 80° - 85° F with a basking spot of 90° - 95° F. There should be a range of temperatures offered to the iguana to allow it to thermoregulate itself. Nighttime temperatures should be 75° - 80° F. All temperatures should be verified with a thermometer regularly.

    Ultraviolet lighting providing UVA and UVB is required for proper calcium metabolism and skeletal development. Without the proper lighting your will become sick and die a very painful death. Proper lighting can be provided utilizing fluorescent tubes specially made for use by reptiles as well as mercury vapor bulbs that also provide some heat as well. Additional heat can be provided utilizing infrared ceramic emitters and incandescent basking bulbs. Hot rocks should never be used under any circumstance as they can severely burn your iguana.

    Iguanas will often tongue lick their surroundings. Because of this most particulate substrate (wood shavings, mulch, sand, or powder types) are not appropriate for most iguanas. Newspaper with non-toxic ink, butcher's paper, paper towels, indoor/outdoor carpeting, or artificial grass all make excellent choices. If using indoor/outdoor carpeting or artificial grass please be sure that there are no dangling strings that could tangle in your iguana's nails. It's also recommended that you have multiple pieces so that you may replace the soiled pieces with the clean set and then clean and disinfect the current set to use for the next cleaning.

    Iguanas come from a tropical climate and require a humidity level of 65% to 75%. To achieve this may require several mistings a day. Many people opt to purchase an automatic misting system instead.

    Iguanas are strict herbivores. Many older literatures will suggest feeding animal protein or even cat food. While some wild iguanas may ingest the occasional insect while eating leaves, it is not a significant portion on their diet. Iguanas that are fed too much animal protein will develop health problems and will die prematurely. A well balanced iguana diet will consist of about 40% to 45% greens (this includes, but is not limited to collard greens, turnip greens, mustard greens, dandelion greens (with flowers), escarole, and/or water cress), 40% to 45% other vegetables (this includes but is not limited to green beans, orange-fleshed squashes (butternut, Kabocha), snap or snow peas, parsnip, asparagus, okra, alfalfa (mature, not sprouts), onions, mushrooms, bell peppers, sweet potato, zucchini, yellow squash, and/or carrots), 10% or less of fruits

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  • 1 decade ago

    iguanas are crawly

  • Anonymous
    1 decade ago

    They taste like chicken be-ach!

  • 1 decade ago

    wikipedia dude!!!

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