Honda Shadow ACE 750 (Brake adjustment)?
I have a 1999 Shadow ACE. I would like to have a little more brake pedel. The brakes seem to work properly but I would like to adjust them to give the pedal a quicker reaction. If someone could help with how to do this I would appreciate it. Thanks for you time. Eric
- Anonymous1 decade agoFavorite Answer
Doesn't an ACE have a Hydraulic Disc on the Rear?
OOPS,,it's hell going blind some days,,,I didn't even See the "750" part.
I guess that makes a difference,huh??LOL
The answers you've gotten about adjustment are spot on & Kudos to Firecracker on his reminder to adjust the BrakeLight switch.
It's also good to have the Light lead the actual brake by a substantial amount.
You may also want to inspect your brake shoe thickness.
The action/leverage of the brake cam in regards to bite-in time is related to it's Angle between the shoes.
The Thicker the shoes,,,the closer to perpendicular the cam sits.
It's only a Minor difference on most all production drum brakes.
The difference in actuation is usually only noticeable to most folks when going from worn-out shoes which put the geometries involved at extreme angles,,,then installing new,thick shoes which puts the geometries back to optimum.
Another trick which has been severly limited for many years now is to reposition the brake arm at the point the shoes make drum contact.
Lots of bikes it's not even possible to adjust without modification,,,,,because some people used to do exact same thing to "compensate" for Brake Shoes soooo worn that adjustment was no longer possible.
At the point of brake initialization,,,
Move the Rear Brake arm as far Back on the cam shaft splines as possible,,,,and still able to get adjuster nut Fully on .
The principle is to set the Arm in Rising Rate mode.
Once brake arm-to-brake rod angle goes beyond perpendicular,,it goes into falling rate mode.
When in Rising Rate mode,,,Pedal is more PRESSURE sensitive.
Once in Falling Rate mode,,,it becomes increasingly TRAVEL sensitive.
Most folks tend to prefer PRESSING HARDER to STOP HARDER,,,
rather than Pressing Farther to stop harder
Brake feels a lot firmer/sharper,,,and much less spongy
Arm & Rod
\................. Slower bite & spongier pedal,,less modulation
I................ about "typical" of most original set-ups
/................Quick bite ,firm pedal,, more Pressure sensitive,,,w/ better modulation
If the arm was a Minute Hand on a Clock..
You'd want it at about the 32~35 minute"past the hour" position at the point the shoes make firm contact.
Another thing you can do is lube everything well.
That should be done in any case.
On some bikes it makes no difference,,,on others it's a quite noticeable improvement.
There CAN be quite a bit of friction in the various pivot points.
You cant really feel it by hand(unless it's a 5 yr old Dirt Bike w/ No maintenance:)
But at the point Your Foot begins to "pressurize" the shoes,,,any Friction is a Drag which must be overcome.
It absorbs Pedal Effort to whatever degree.
Cleaning and lightly polishing the brake cam shaft and it's cam lobe,,and the bore thru the backing plate,,,and the shoes' anchor pivot is always worth doing,,,,and often enough makes a "feelable difference".
Same goes for Pedal's Pivot.
Without significant Mods,,,there's really not much ya Can do.
But the few Small things add up and will improve brake feel.
Best part is,,,its just Good Set-Up & Maintenace routine,,,and will assure longer,more consistent performance.
The One Caution is that if the Wear Indicator,,or Inspection of the shoes reveals significant shoe wear,,,,be Very Cautious re-positioning the actuator arm.
The mis-use of that tactic is why we are now restricted from having full adjustment available any more.
Do Not do it if shoes are worn much at all
- guardrailjimLv 71 decade ago
Turn the adjuster nut at the rear brake panel.
Apply the brake and you will see the rod activate the brakes.
You can adjust the pedal "height"
At the rear of the brake pedal, is a bolt & nut.
Adjust the bolt to get the desired pedal height.
- Firecracker .Lv 71 decade ago
One thing to add: after you adjust the brake, also adjust the brake light switch.Source(s): Wow, TXm42! What a list. I've done all but polish the cams. I didn't add any of the rest. I get slammed every time I even mention that I like the light to come on before brake action begins. (and thanks for the kudos)
- Anonymous1 decade ago
your break pedal is attached to the rear drum brake. you can pick the bike up so the rear wheel is off the ground and ajust linkage until break just barely starts to run (Rotate rear wheel by hand to feel this), Thats the best you can do. its pretty straight forward.