help beardie impact problem...latest update . is it dying?
see my past question
video of my past tank , i know its a bit small but i need to deal with the impact problem first.
i tried soaking it in water but i do not have a big tub, so i left the water running from the shower, notice it keeps trying to get to the water source.
i off the lightings for the night because the insects are attracted to it and disturbing it pretty much. i forced feed 2 small pieces of lettuce with some calcium power,
is force feeding good for it , it still doesnt eat?
do i have to on the basking right after this for it to bask, or do i have to wipe it dry?
videos here help pls
- wickedsweet1Lv 51 decade agoFavorite Answer
Hello again; I watched your videos... read thru the questions again....
at this particular moment I think the biggest issue may be that you are hunting too hard for a problem? he looks healthy... I may have missed something, I know, but he did not look at all like there was dehyrdation... I did not see he was trying to get to the water source... I see a lizard scared panicking when I see that...
the second issue may very well be the way things are typed out here...?
ie. lights; they should be turned off at night.... bearded dragons are out during the day.. I saw in a few questions, you referenced having lights on at night, not day... and then in this one state you have to turn the lights off at night? they should be... day/night schedule is off on any living creature if it is always day?
your bearded "appears" healthy... possibly freaked out in shower... soaking is not the same as showering.. if you have no bath use a container... just so long as your bearded is sitting in the water <warm> not too much, his head/shoulders should not be under.... it is to help "loosen" things up.... a shower does not allow his rear end to be submerged.. it just gets him wet... you know.....
force feeding is only advisable if there is weight loss.. have you checked the weight of your beardie... has he lost any... I saw no skin "hanging/loose" which would be an indictator loss of weight/dehydration/etc...
if you allow him the time and rest; find a big bowl, tupperware containerany object that can hold enough water to allow the beardie's tail end to be submerged... and address the issue of the habitat size.... offer him some crickets, roaches, a pinkie mouse maybe.... offer something other than the greens you have the picture of... like this maybe; peaches, shredded carrots, gragpes <cut/sliced and diced... scroll down thru the pictures on this site link... lots of pictures;
Daytime basking spot temperature: 38-42C (95-108F)
Daytime general background temperature: 24-29C (75-84F)
Night-time general background temperature: around 16-21C (60-70F) for adults around 26-27C (80F) for hatchlings.
It is usually necessary to experiment with the wattage of the heat lamps and the setting and position of the thermostat probe to achieve these temperatures when setting up a large new viv; placing max/min thermometers or digital thermometers in key spots is the best way to do this. "Hot Rocks" with built in heaters are not recommended for bearded dragons; they sense warmth from above, not below, and can burn their bellies from lying on these. Heat mats may be useful for extra warmth at night for babies; however, these are safest mounted sideways on the vivarium wall, for the same reason.
Ultraviolet light (UVA and UVB) is ESSENTIAL for bearded dragons. UVA is needed for normal vision and activity levels. UVB enables them to synthesise vitamin D3 in their skin. Without the UVB component bearded dragons cannot effectively metabolise calcium in their diet, however much this is supplemented, and metabolic bone disease WILL occur.
Special 5%-10% UV fluorescent tubes such as ZooMed Reptisun 10.0, the Arcadia D3 5.0 Reptile Lamp and the ExoTerra ReptiGlo 8.0 tube must be set up within 12" of the basking spot - ideally 6-8", hung above it so the lizards do not have to stare into the light. These must be renewed at least once a year.
Ideally, to increase the UV even further these should be fitted with a reflector strip such as the Arcadia Reflector, to direct all possible UV light downwards into the vivarium.
Bearded dragons are omnivorous. A balanced diet must include green leaves (e.g. spring greens, rocket, mustard greens, dandelion leaves, endive, chicory greens, and watercress, with kale, spinach, bok choy, Swiss chard or beet greens occasionally. Suitable vegetables include pumpkin, butternut squash and other squashes, green beans, parsnip, snap peas, and sweet potato. These can be cut into small pieces or grated as appropriate.
Insects (e.g. crickets and locusts) will also be part of a healthy diet - all insects should be well cared for and well fed.
As growth slows, adults (over 9 - 10 months old) will reduce their food intake, unless breeding. Fresh greens should be offered daily. Insects (e.g. large brown or black crickets; locusts; wax worms for an occasional treat) may be offered every other day.
The live food should always be well fed, and dusted with calcium powder (once a week, use vit/mineral supplement instead).
When bearded dragons are over a year old, some respond to the shortening days and cooler nights of autumn by "brumating" - a natural winter rest period in which they may stop basking and feeding altogether and even sleep for many weeks. If your dragon starts to do this, a veterinary health check is reassuring to ensure it is brumating rather than ill.
"do i have to on the basking right after this for it to bask, or do i have to wipe it dry? " - could you clarify this one for me? I missed something?? sorry
hope your beardie is doing much better
have a good day
thank you for taking the time to read this
here is some info I came across tonight.. thought of your dragon, so I am adding it and a link to the site; hoping he is doing well and you are less stressed;
One symptoms of a mild impaction is the inability to excrete regularly or straining when they do, if an animal is passing some feces and urates, you can increase fluids with a dropper or soaks in a warm bath to help them pass it. If that does not help the situation, seek veterinary care and also have a fecal to rule out parasites or gram negative bacteria being the cause. Left untreated that can create a prolapse which requires immediate medical attention.
Figure 2. X-Ray of adult Bearded Dragon
You will see other symptoms before you realize they are not defecating. Some are slight leg trembles, regurgitation, dragging one of both the back legs, not walking properly and you may also see a slight bump along the spinal area.
The paralysis you are seeing is because the stomach empties out into the intestines laying right along the mid/upper spine. (Figure 2) It puts pressure on the spine, they do not have disc between the vertebras that protect the spine like other animals. Lower impactions will usually display a slight raised area along the mid to lower back or you can feel it in the abdomen area.
The animal will not be very mobile, one or both back legs may appear paralyzed. If the impaction is higher in the digestive track, the front legs may also be paralyzed. A lower impaction that is only affecting the back legs can continue to grow until the front legs are also affected.
Again, you may see a raised area along the spine (Figure 3) Do not push along the spine right now or force them move their legs, let them do it in their own time, forcing them can cause permanent damage.
Here is a method that we have used several times now with bearded dragons that has worked. You need to move the impaction down and outSource(s): the pixie in my pocket
- 1 decade ago
force feed him a few drops of veggie oil, sometime this will help impaction. dont force feed him food exept as a last resort (and if you do, if hes big enough give him a pinkie or chunks of one becase they have more nutrition for the amount given than bugs) .....make sure the temp.s are right a coldd lizard will not eat.....they can go a long time with out food so dont jump the gun yet...dont ever put him back in the tank wet dry him off, there should be a basking spot of a higher temp than the rest of the tank and the tank over all should have a lower temp at one end and higher at the other....i would put him on papper towls if hes impacted he could be eating his substrate....look up the temp. i have uros not beardies and the temps are alot higher for mine. forget about feeding and worry about his habbitat and being impacted...if he is not happy in his environment he will not eat...fix that and he should start eating again as long as nothing else is wrong.
this is what you should be feeding
Powdered calcium carbonate
- 4 years ago
You need to soak him in a lukewarm bath for about 20-30 minutes. Watch him if he's weak so that he doesn't drown. Hopefully this will loosen any impaction. It's a good idea to soak them every week or so, as most won't drink from a water bowl, or even a dropper. By soaking, they can rehydrate via their vent. Good luck
- NasubiLv 71 decade ago
Please go to http://www.beardeddragon.org for help.
There's a Health and ER section in the forums, frequented by vet techs, reptile rescuers and others that REALLY know what they're doing when it comes to bearded dragons. I really wouldn't take any advice about this on Yahoo Answers because you don't know if the person answering has any idea what they're talking about. Like the previous answerer gave you several food items that you SHOULDN'T be giving your dragon.
Please go there and get help..