Thinking about getting a Scottish Terrier (Scottie). Anyone know this answer?
My family is considering a Scottie and we have just gone and visited a litter. We met the mom and dad and there were just 2 males left (11 weeks old). They are adorable but I am concerned with the severe bow legs and turned in back feet. Is this normal? What else should I be on the lookout for?
- 1 decade agoFavorite Answer
This is the AKC conformation article for scotties. All responicible that register with AKC should follow their standards. http://www.akc.org/breeds/scottish_terrier/
The shoulders should be well laid back and moderately well knit at the withers. The forelegs should be very heavy in bone, straight or slightly bent with elbows close to the body, and set in under the shoulder blade with a definite forechest in front of them. Scottish Terriers should not be out at the elbows. The forefeet should be larger than the hind feet, round, thick and compact with strong nails. The front feet should point straight ahead, but a slight "toeing out" is acceptable. Dew claws may be removed.
The thighs should be very muscular and powerful for the size of the dog with the stifles well bent and the legs straight from hock to heel. Hocks should be well let down and parallel to each other."
I'm just wondering...is this a BYB [backyard breeder]?
Here's an article about different types of dog breeders:
"You have decided that a Purebred dog is for you. What is your next move? What steps should you take to insure that your pup meets your requirements? Doubtless, this purchase should receive thoughtful consideration. It's no loaf of bread you're buying--this little pup will be a member of your family for a decade or more. Choosing a reputable breeder is primary to your objective.
Since it is almost impossible for YOU to know what any of these little pups will grow into physically and emotionally, you must rely entirely upon your faith in the person from whom you are purchasing your pup. There are three options open to you in choosing this person.
1. PET SHOP OR DEALER. The Worst Choice Possible! Pups are poorly bred and raised. They are thought of as merchandise (the loaf of bread) to be sold for a high profit. This high profit is possible because little has been put into the care of these pups. Many are sickly. Pet shops rely heavily on impulse buying via "the doggy in the window," which is no way to choose an addition to the family.
2. BACKYARD BREEDER. Also a Poor Choice. This is the person who owns a pet "purebred" and thinks it would be "fun" to have puppies or maybe that it would be a great experience for the children. Even worse, perhaps it's being done to make money. Usually this breeder knows little about grooming and care, and still less of the breed history or the AKC standard or how his dogs conform to it. The backyard breeders do not do regular examinations by veterinarians on any possible problems with their breed, nor do they x-ray hips. They are not even aware of breed problems nor do they care. There goal is to produce pups and when the "fun" is over, sell them quickly.
3. HOBBY BREEDER. The Very Best Choice. The serious and dedicated hobby breeder regards their dogs as just that--a hobby. They do not expect a profit. When someone breeds dogs for enjoyment and for the pleasure and thrill of producing the very finest specimens possible, rather than for profit, the result is SUPERIOR. These breeders acknowledge responsibility for each and every puppy produced and stand behind every dog they have bred. Without question, your choice should be the HOBBY BREEDER.
It is an interesting fact that poor quality pups from pet shops and backyard breeders are usually sold for the same price and sometimes even more than those purchased from the serious hobby breeder. All three of the above breeders sell puppies that are AKC registerable--this is not an assurance of quality or dedication to the breed. So, the question is: How does one recognize the serious, dedicated hobby breeder? Prepared below is criteria that you should require your breeder to meet before you consider purchasing your purebred dog. Do not be afraid to confront them with these requirements. It is your RIGHT and you can rest assured that the dedicated breeder will respond positively and with pride.
What a breeder SHOULD DO:
1. Belong to a local breed club or a national all-breed club. Ideally, he or she belongs to several. However, sometimes this is impossible if there is no local breed club in the area. The reason for this requirement is that this sort of participation indicates depth of involvement. This breeder is exposed to other points of view, learns more about his breed, general dog care, modern breeding practices and is kept up to date. He is breeding in accordance with a Code of Ethics.
2. Be involved in showing their dog(s). This means that your breeder is not breeding in a vacuum. The breeder who does not show has no idea how good his dogs really are and is deprived of the opportunity to share information and ideas with others. Showing provides the competition which encourages breeders to produce better dogs. The breeder who shows wants to prove how good his dogs are in competition and is putting his breeding program on the line. He is not relying on just a pedigree to indicate quality. Even though you do not want a show dog, you deserve a pet that is the end result of a carefully planned litter--a pup which received the same care as a potential champion. The Breeder who is known by others and has a reputation to uphold will undoubtedly be as careful and honest in selling you your pet as he is in selling his show dogs.
3. Give you a period of time which to allow you to have the pup examined by a veterinarian to determine his state of health, so that both of you are assured as to its health. If a problem should arise, it can then be quickly resolved. This period of time is usually 48 to 72 hours.
4. Give you written instructions on feeding, training, care and grooming. You should also be given the pup's health/shot records. The breeder should supply you with information where you can purchase books about the breed.
5. Be able to show you proof that their stock has been x-rayed and is clear of hip dysplasia, preferably with and OFA certification number.
6. Make it clear to you that their responsibility continues long after you have taken your puppy home. Indeed, until your pup has departed this earth. Many dedicated breeders will ask that the pup be returned to them or placed with new owners who meet with their approval if ever for any reason you are unable to continue ownership.
7. Be curious about what kind of dogs you have had in the past and what happened to them.
8. Ask questions like whether or not you have a fenced yard or if the pup will be walked on lead. They will make certain you understand all the negative aspects of owning a dog as well as the positive. Having the pup's best interests at heart to say nothing of theirs and yours, a reputable breeder will take great pains to place his pups properly the first time around. A returned pup is a traumatic experience for all concerned and therefore, the breeder who is always willing to accept a puppy back will want to make certain that this specific purebred dog is the breed for you.
9. Be able to show you a clean environment, well-socialized puppies and a dam with a good temperament (happy and self-assured).
10. Be willing to give you references--names of people who have purchased pups from him in the past or of others in the breed.
11. Perhaps be a bit hesitant to sell you a pup until they know more about you. Will not pressure you into deciding immediately, and encourage you to see other litters before making your final selection.
12. Provide a written contract and/or conditions of sale.
13. Require spaying or neutering of pet quality puppies. Breeders spend a lot of time and effort planning breeding programs designed to improve the breed. They selectively carry on their programs with only the best quality available. Pet quality puppies should be loved and enjoyed as pets. Reputable breeders don't want their dogs being used just to "make puppies" or worse yet, to have their puppies end up in "puppy mills" where they will be mass produced. Therefore, they will require that pets be spayed or neutered before being registered with the AKC.
If your breeder meets all the above criteria, you are in good hands. If you find yourself with a negative response to any of these, think twice, discuss the situation with someone else. Don't be impulsive and DO ASK QUESTIONS.
Keep this in mind: You are probably going to pay for quality. Whether or not you get it is up to you."
I hope you've done your research! Though BYB may sell their puppies "cheaper" they may be selling a puppy that has health problems or defects. A responcible breeder should follow the examples said above in the article about dog breeders of "what a breeder should do"
If the "breeder" you're looking at doesn't follow ALL [yes, ALL] of those examples of "what a breeder should do" you must consider looking for another breeder. One example of what happened to someone that has gotten a puppy is one family I was aquainted with. They wanted a golden retriever for their child [who was like 5 years old, no small child can take care of a dog properly at 5 years old alone without the responcibility going to the parents after all] and they had the choice between a breeder located in northern California that was selling a puppy for $700-$1000 [Depending on show or pet quality] vs. a breeder in their town selling a puppy for $400. They wanted to "save money" and get the puppy for $400 not knowing they, and the puppy, have become victims of BYB's. The puppy ended up with hip problems that cost the family thousands of dollars, enough to have gotten 3 puppies from a RESPONCIBLE breeder like their other choice. More problems piled up and the dog died very young no matter how much effort they put in to save the puppy. They now have a dog from the other breeder, the responcible one. They told me they found their experience with the process of getting a puppy from the responcible breeder a lot better than getting it from a backyard breeder and their new dog is in great health.
I don't know many details of the breeder, but read the info from the articles and be the judge. Good luck and have many happy healthy years with your future puppy!!!!
- Anonymous3 years ago
1Source(s): Bow Legs Correction http://emuy.info/BowLegsNoMore
- 4 years ago
All the ones I've personally met have been meaner then dirt.. I'm sure there are some that are fine, but overall they are not known to be the most friendly.. and personally, I have issues with the breed because I own a black miniature schnauzer.. they have a similar grooming pattern so I am CONSTANTLY told that I don't know what my dog is.. that he is a scotty.. (he's not, I've had schnauzers since birth.. scottys are lower to the ground, have a heavier build, have huge heads, and a long body) Aside from temperment.. they are a bit harder to housetrain.. actually, to train in general.. add to that the terrier need for energy release (which when unused turns to destructo dog)... and you have a breed not great for first timers.. they are not the worst dogs in the world.. (working as a bather now, I can say I've had the most problems with Cairn terriers).. just hard to recommend.
- 1 decade ago
I have 8 Scotties and an occasional litter, I've never had any with bowed / turned in back legs. Actually their feet turn out & not in...
11 is a HUGE litter for Scotties. I've had about 20 litters through the years and the biggest was 9 pups and we lost 2 of them.
I would be very concerned...
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- 1 decade ago
This is normal in most dogs, as in the womb, space is an issue. You should not be to terribly concerned, most Scottie's are bow legged. They usually grow out of being terribly bow-legged and pigeon toed the more they are free to run, and move around. I have had 3 Scotties and they were very bow-legged when I first brought them home, as time went on, I noticed the bow in the legs began to straighten up.
the more mature, the less bowed the legs were.
If you have major concerns before acquiring the dog, ask if you can take the dog to a vet for precautionary measures to have them checked out, or contact a Vet, ask them your questions, and see if you can live with their answers.
- 1 decade ago
Well, puppies may straighten up their legs when they get older, because they will be stronger by then and can support themselves, just like babies, when they started to learn to walk, they walk in croaked legs, and that' s just normal, and the more they walk, the better are their support, so you shouldn' t worry too much about it too much, but of course you can choose another puppy that' s strong enough to hold itself, after all, we all don' t want a fragile puppy! Here' s some tips you should look for before buying a puppy:
1) Age: Puppies should be no younger than eight weeks. A good breeder will not place puppies younger than that. Old school used to be six weeks was fine. But so much growth and development happens between six and eight weeks. Also think, puppies' eyes and ears open at about three weeks and they begin to test solids foods after that. A five or six week old puppy is barely weaned. The extra couple weeks with the dam and littermates can make a big difference overall. Also, puppies should have at least one set of shots before going to homes. The vaccine schedule for puppies is usually 6, 9 and 12 weeks with the first rabies booster being at 16 weeks. As for the other end of the age spectrum, older animals. I am a firm believer that any dog at any age ?even a senior ?will have something to offer. If you go to a rescue, look at an adult dog. Just because a dog is fully-grown does not mean they are past training. Adult dogs have better bladder control and more attention span than a young puppy. And puppies are only little for a short time! Sometimes puppies in rescue may have to be placed younger than eight weeks. This is an exception to the rule and many shelters will try to find foster care for young puppies if possible. The younger you get a puppy, the more work it will be and the more patience you must have with it. Ideally, no pup should be placed before eight weeks. If a reeder?tried to insist otherwise, get out. It is amazing how many people have litters and try to place them young because of the work and expense involved. And bear in mind, in some places it is illegal to sell animals under eight weeks.
2) Condition: The puppies or dogs should show NO signs of lameness, discharge from eyes, ears, nose, etc. They should have clean, shiny coats and be alert. Their stool should be firm. A good breeder or rescue group will have no issue if you wish to have your vet examine the animal before bringing it home. Many will insist you do. If you are going to a breeder, what tests were run on the parents to help ensure the healthiest dogs were bred. If there were no tests done at all, leave immediately. If there were no shots given to puppies, leave immediately. Also a good breeder will give you some form of health guarantee. Many will even have a lifetime guarantee as long as you are taking proper care of the animal. Are the dogs from lines that fit the breed standard correctly ?ideally they dogs should have proven themselves in both the show ring as well as in some form of performance sport like Obedience or Agility. Now, look at the condition of the facility. Is it full of feces and looks unclean? Does it have a really offensive odor or smell too heavily of cleaners as if something was being hidden? Is there sign of pest infestation? What is the attitude of the people to the animals? What is the attitude of the animals?
3) Attitude: Is the person trying to place the pup or dog trying to push the animal on you? Is the person telling you both the pros and cons of the breed ?or cross? I cringe when I hear statements like his is the BEST dog for anyone.? This is far from true. What I would like in a dog is probably different from what you want. I like active dogs with a strong work drive and moderate to high energy levels. I prefer longer coats and dogs that can handle various climates. I want something that will think nothing of hauling a pack or cart or working all day if asked to. This can be quite a handful for many people. No matter how I feel about the breeds I like and have, I would never insist it is the best breed for everyone. Anyone who tells you this should be selling used cars on the corner. I look for someone who will tell me both the good points and bad points of a dog. Having gotten animals from reputable and responsible breeders as well as rescues, I feel that people in both areas should be more than honest when trying to match a dog to you. If they seem too anxious to make that sale or adoption, I would consider strongly going elsewhere.Source(s): dogbreedinfo
- BossLv 61 decade ago
In addition to the issues that you have already observed, you should definitely meet the parents to assess their temperament. Scotties have the tendency to be very stubborn and difficult to train. Additionally, they possess the typical terrier traits of being very high energy and demanding. If you are only interested in getting one for a pet, then the temperament should be your main concern.
- 1 decade ago
it does not sound like the pups are to their fullest potiental,I would not take them there will be more scotties. breeders just don't stop breeding so don't get desprate and settle for something that turns bad or you have seconed thoughts on,and it sounds to me that the pups are pigeon toed.so this is not normal,so good luck hope you find that scottie!!!Source(s): dog owner,shelter worker,and I have just bought a lab from a breeder after a year of selective searching,
- Anonymous1 decade ago
Well, I wouldn't get the dog. Get one form a shelter instead. If the dog had bowed legs, who knows, something else could be wrong too. A shelter is always a good place to get a dog from. Just find one that works for you.