Uromastyx....I Need help Please!!!!!!!!!?
Ok i got my uro about 3 months ago and he has been very healthy...he was eating well the temp in his cage during the day is about 103 at the highest and 89 at the lowest..it get to like 72 at night...he gets greens and all that..but the last couple of days he has'nt eaten anything at all he wont come out of hiding and if you touch him he tries to bite you..he is usaly very friendly...he even refused to eat his cricket. i bought some new sand for him about 3 weeks ago and it is really powered i makes alot of dust i dont like it..but have nothing ot replace it at the moment. what is wrong with him??? i have the u/v light and a regular heat light as well. i dont know how old he is he is about 7 inches in length.
103 in the hot side and 98 on cool side....this sind he is in is do dusty he is no longer brown and blakc he is blue i think maybe i need to get diff sand next time i got to the pet store 80 miles away...what else can i use for bedding till then?? wint news paper get hot and burn up??
- copperheadLv 71 decade agoFavorite Answer
He'll do fine on newspaper. It has to get lots hotter than 103 to burn. If he's just been behaving this way since the new sand, I'd say he's inhaled some dust and it's causing him some respiratory problems. I get kinda crabby when I'm not feeling well, too! It would be best to get him off the sand as soon as you can - if this is his problem, you don't want him inhaling more.
On a side note - it's not necessary to feed them crickets. Too much animal protein is bad for them, but I notice you say "cricket" in the singular. Just don't offer them too often!
You could raise his temp. some too. They can take 130 easily. Also, if this is respiratory, I hoope you aren't keeping a water dish with him - they are sensitive to even humidity! Water should only be offered about once a week for 15 minutes.
- 1 decade ago
Your temps should be as follows. Basking spot of 120-130 degrees, air temp on hot side 95-100 degrees, air temp on cool side in the mid 80's. I'm not sure what your 103 temp is actually reffering to. Check out Doug's care sheet at Deer Fern Farms.
*EDIT* Your temps are off and this probably the problem. You need a basking spot of around 120 with the air temp on that side of the enclosure around 100 and a cool side air temp of the mid 80's. You need either a temp gun or a digital thermometer with external probe to check these temps. Without knowing them exactly it is pure guess work.
- allyalexmchLv 61 decade ago
A uromastyx, my favorite of all reptiles!
First of all, you should not be offering your Uromastyx crickets. They are vegetarians and should have a diet of budgie seed and greens (kale, turnip tops etc.). Spray down their veggies so they get the water they need.
My guess from what you say is that he really doesn't like the bedding. Remove it asap and replace it with newspaper until you can replace it with his usual substrate. (change the newspaper daily).
Added: The newspaper wont get hot enough to burn, it would have to be a lot hotter then that. That sand sounds awful, i would try to get your money back on it.
- KathySLv 71 decade ago
103 is not hot enough. Are you providing UV lighting? What sand did you buy?
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- 1 decade ago
CARE SHEET FOR THE GENUS UROMASTYX
Randall L. Gray
These interesting lizards have become more popular during the last few years. Unfortunately there is little known about the genus. The following guidelines will help maintain these animals in captivity. Hopefully as more people work with the genus success stories will become more numerous. The only way to ensure better husbandry for these unusual lizard is for all herpetoculturists to share their information.
TAXONOMY AND DISTRIBUTION
There are approximately 13 species in the genus Uromastyx. These lizards are adapted to arid regions and are found from northwestern India throughout southwestern Asia and the Arabian Peninsula to the Sahara of Africa (Moody 1987). Members of this genus are referred to as dab lizards or spiny tailed lizards. There are six species (U. aegyptius, U. ornatus, U. ocellatus, U. acanthinurus, U. hardwicki, and U. benti) which are occasionally available in the United States. The other seven species are seldom if ever imported. Uromastyx aegyptius is the largest member of the genus with individuals reaching 30 inches or more in total length and weighing several pounds. The other species are usually under 14 inches in total length. Coloration is variable between and within species. Uromastyx aegyptius and Uromastyx hardwicki are usually dark to light brown. Uromastyx acanthinurus can be yellow, green, bright orange or a combination of these colors. Uromastyx ornatus are sexually dimorphic with adult males being green or blue green with blotches of yellows and oranges. Females have more subtle yellows, browns, and some orange.
Behavior differs between species and even individuals within the same species. Some, Uromastyx acanthinurus and Uromastyx aegyptius, can be very shy, often retreating to a hide spot when someone approaches the cage. Others, Uromastyx ornatus, will often be tame. Individuals differ in their behaviors and you can find exceptions to the above generalizations. Large numbers of Uromastyx aegyptius and Uromastyx ornatus have been imported into the country during the last few years. The US Fish and Wildlife Service estimated that 7,000 members of the genus were brought in 1994. For unknown reasons the death rate for Uromastyx ornatus is rumored to be as high as 80% during the first two months of captivity. Uromastyx aegyptius is hardier and with proper treatment adapts to captivity. Uromastyx acanthinurus have not been imported from Morocco for several years, however, a few animals occasionally come from Europe and a only two private breeders are known to occasionally produce captive born animals. There is probably less than 100 animals in the United States. This species adjusts well to captivity even if reproductive success is not common.
The presence of large femoral pores with waxy protuberance and hemipene bulges can often distinguish males, however this is not obvious on all species. Males tend to have broader heads but this is often subtle or misleading. Uromastyx ornatus are the easiest to sex due to enlarged femoral pores on the males and adult males are more colorful than females. Uromastyx acanthinurus can be extremely difficult to sex. Probing does not work with Uromastyx acanthinurus and may not be a useful tool for the genus.
Most lizards are territorial, which means that the male and sometimes the female will defend an area from members of the same species or even other species. Often in captivity two male lizards will fight openly. Even if aggression is not overt, the submissive male can be adversely affected. Research with green iguanas indicates that submissive males in sight or smell of a dominant male have slower growth rates. Uromastyx males should be housed separately. Some herpetoculturists even house females individually and only introduce them to males during the breeding season (Matt Moyle, personal communication). CAGING Each species of lizard is adapted to specific environmental conditions. Knowledge about a species macro and micro habitat is critical in designing a cage setup, however limited information is available regarding habitat type for each species of Uromastyx. Generally the species are found in deserts, therefore they are best kept in desert set-ups. Cages can consist of glass aquariums, metal stock tanks, or wooden boxes. Sand, dirt and newspaper are often used for substrate. Rocks or other objects should be placed in the cage to allow climbing and basking sites. Any heavy objects, such as rocks, must be securely anchored or the lizard will burrow underneath causing the rock to fall and crush it. Hide boxes provide the animals with a sense of security and are especially important for gravid females. Uromastyx can and should be kept outside during the summer or all year in the southwestern United States where temperatures seldom drop below the mid 60's F. A variety of outdoor caging types can be constructed, including a simple sheet metal ring sunk 12 inches in the ground and standing 24 inches above ground (the height is adjusted depending upon the size of the animals). Outdoor cages should be secured with a wire top to prevent predators (e.g. cats, birds, raccoons) from entering.
These lizards are adapted to hot desert conditions. The cage should have a daytime hot basking spot where the temperature exceeds 120 F, however the lizard must be able to retreat to areas in the low 90's. Incandescent spotlights can provide hot basking spots. The wattage selected depends upon the size of the cage. Thermometers should be placed at both ends of the cage and monitored to ensure a proper temperature gradient. Under tank heaters can be used to supplement heat, however these are diurnal species and regulate their body temperature by basking in the sun. Spotlights more accurately approximately the way diurnal lizards obtain their heat naturally. Night time temperatures should be less that the daytime highs. Temperatures should be allowed to drop into the mid 60's F.
Ultraviolet light is believed to be important for most lizards. Unfiltered sunlight (i.e. not through glass) is the best sources of ultraviolet light and lizards should always be exposed to sun whenever possible. There are several full spectrum fluorescent light bulbs on the market. Most claim that they duplicate the sun's light spectrum, however it is unlikely that any can achieve the intensity of ultraviolet light emitted by the sun. There is no scientific research supporting the assumption that these bulbs are beneficial, however there use is recommended since there is some antidotal evidence that they provide psychological benefits to the lizards. The new ZOOMED full spectrum bulb appears to have the highest UVA and UVB of any of the full spectrum bulbs on the market, therefore it is recommended.
Most desert species are adapted to live without free water. Uromastyx ornatus comes from the Sinai Peninsula where it rains less than 2 inches per year. Many species obtain moisture from the food they consume. There is evidence that some species, such as the Australian Moloch and North American horned lizards, collect morning dew on their scales which is then channeled toward the mouth. Many herpetoculturists soak their Uromastyx aegyptius in water and claim that the animal swells as it absorbs water. Whether the animal is actually filling up with water or only filling it's body cavity with air is unknown. Considering that this is a desert species, soaking in water seems inconsistent with adaptations to arid conditions and could lead to respiratory infections if the animal does not thoroughly dry after soaking. Water can be provided infrequently in a bowl. The bowl should not be left for long periods in the cage or it can raise the humidity to possibly unacceptable levels. Baby Uromastyx ornatus will drink water sprayed on the side of the cage.
Uromastyx are omnivorous which means they consume both animal and plant materials. Since there is no data about the specific nutritional requirements of this genus a large variety of food items should be offered. Young animals more readily accept insects such as wax worms, crickets, and super meal worms, which should be offered three or four times per week. The following vegetables should be offered; kale, collard greens, mustard greens, sweet potatoes, carrots, peas, corn, and green peas. In addition, dandelion greens, alfalfa, grass, and flowers can be added to the diet. Beans such as split peas, lentils, navy beans, and other should also be provided. Some of these beans can be sprouted prior to feeding. Bird seed should also be mixed in with the salad. A reptile vitamin containing calcium should be sprinkled on the salad. Some of the commercial iguana chows can also be mixed in with the salad to ensure better nutrition. There are some indications that nutritional needs are not easily met for this genus. Several herpetoculturists who are raising young Uromastyx aegyptius and Uromastyx acanthinurus report slow growth rates. For example, I obtained two captive born Uromastyx aegyptius that were three inches long. Within eight months one animal was five inches long and the other 11 inches and much bulkier. The only difference in husbandry was that the larger animal would eat insects and smaller one would not. I have also observed slow growth in captive born Uromastyx acanthinurus.
when i gave mine seed i always offered finch seeds and they seemed to love them but it sounds like everything else is right.