Lv 2729 points

Jay

Favorite Answers26%
Answers101
Questions15

I have abandoned Y!A as it is yet another social networking site in it's roots. I didn't realize it & now I do. Goodbye fellow strugllers, I suggest you reconsider your internet usage as well. Be well & take care!

  • Why does my 2002 Pontiac Montana wobble when driving?

    I just got this van from my sister about 3 weeks ago and it's been rode hard.

    First, let me tell you when it started, how it progressed, & what I've done so far.

    Two Fridays ago, I noticed that the van felt like it was wobbling while driving down the road. Mind you, the hub bearing assembly was bad in one of the front wheels, I thought it was getting worse, from just loud noise to nearly falling apart. I was waiting for parts from RockAuto at this point.

    The next day it was snowing pretty heavily & I got stuck in a few spots, I noticed the wobbling was worse, so bad, in fact, that I drove 15-20 mph the whole way home, afraid the wheel was going to fall off!

    I got the an in garage & it sat until today.

    This morning I went out with two hub bearing assemblies, two outer tie rod ends and ended up going to the auto store as my sway bar linkage was completely broken. Ended up replacing those too. The only thing I didn't get finished was the passenger side hub bearing assembly, as I kept rounding off the bolt heads, so I gave up and put it all back together (yes I used a torque wrench!).

    Once I reconnected the battery, I drove it, noticed the ABS light was off & the traction system were functioning again and the loud road noise was gone.

    My van was still wobbling, though not as bad. The wobbling isn't so much in the steering wheel, more like from under me and my right side seems to feel more of the wobble.

    I didn't think to check the inside of the tires for bulges while I had it in the air, but the outsides seem smooth. I did notice, however, that my rear tires have no wheel weights on them. Don't all tires need balanced when mounted?

    I checked to see if the van wobbled only when under load (in gear) and it wobbles all the time, in or out of gear.

    Any help is appreciated and best answer gets 10 points, thanks!

    1 AnswerMaintenance & Repairs7 years ago
  • In Google search, it used to provide maps...?

    When I would search for a business. A nice little map picture with the business in the city I searched (typically my home city per defaults) the listing & info, followed by search results.

    Since I upgraded Google Chrome, Google search is not the same on any browser I use, just search results with no maps, nor do I have the maps links in the side bar or top menu bar anymore.

    Anyone else having this problem? Any way to fix it back to how it was before?

    Best answer gets 10 points!

    Thanks!

    2 AnswersGoogle9 years ago
  • Why does John 1:1 say one thing in all Bibles except the NWT?

    I mean, the Bibles that the world uses say something totally different than the NWT & I want some proven Truth please, no comments without proof text will be considered!

    5 AnswersReligion & Spirituality9 years ago
  • 1992 Nissan Maxima GXE SOHC Crankshaft Pulley is Wobbling?

    Now, correct me if I am wrong, but doesn't the Crankshaft Pulley sit on a sleeve? Would the sleeve be bad, & therefore allowing the Crankshaft Pulley to wobble? Also, the rubber "membrane" or Harmonic Balancer rubber piece leaked oil, black oil, bot like my engine oil, it has stopped. Would I need to replace the sleeve & the rubber piece then? I am unsure what to do. I know that the wobble is my biggest concern, but since I will be in there, would I be able to find just the rubber part of the balancer, or do I have to buy a whole new assembly?

    3 AnswersMaintenance & Repairs10 years ago
  • I have a few 1992 Nissan Maxima GXE 3.0 V6 Questions?

    First, I am a complete newbie when it comes to cars, so, judging by the picture (will be in additional details) is my vehicle a DOHC or SOHC? I think it is DOHC, but please correct me if I am wrong.

    Also, I am looking at buying several different used Harmonic Balancers (See second pic in additional details) because mine is bad, anyone got any tips?

    Finally, when I open the hood, it reeks of gasoline, the shop just put a new injector in, but I've driven the vehicle a tleast 10 miles since then, would the gas smell still linger at this point from any spills? Any ideas? I cannot see any leaks while looking.

    Any help would be appreciated.

    2 AnswersNissan10 years ago
  • Which budget tablet should I buy?

    Tax season is upon us, so the wife & I are looking to buy some low-priced tablets. So far I have been looking at two specifically, the Coby Kyros:

    http://www.jr.com/coby/pe/CBY_MID70154G/

    -or-

    The NextBook Next3:

    http://www.jr.com/nextbook/pe/NEK_NEXT3/

    We are torn & don't know what to buy. These are both resistive touch screens, which are decent if made correctly, but nowhere near as nice as the capacitive touch screen like the iPad has.

    The Coby has 4GB of RAM and an 800MHz processor, whereas the Next3 has only 256MB of RAM, but claims a dual core (albeit digital picture frame class ARM) processor but an 8.4" screen.

    The spec winner is the KYROS, but I have a feeling some of you out there have had experience with these & maybe others out there.

    For "Best Answer & points" I am looking for personal -experience- & a detailed review of whatever you use/used. I am trying to keep it below $200 per tablet & if possible, if anyone knows of one, a capacitive touch screen is preferred.

    Thanks in advance & I look forward to your answers!

    (Spam is flagged & deleted btw)

    1 AnswerPDAs & Handhelds10 years ago
  • Windows XP SP3 CD Burner problem recognizing black CD-R discs?

    I recently (literally) found a computer (on the side of the road) and it's twin (another tower). The PC in question is running Windows XP SP3, here are the basic specs:

    Pent 4 1.8 GHz

    512 MB PC100 RAM

    GeForce2 MX 100/200 32MB DDR AGP

    300W Generic PSU

    IDE 8x4x32 CD Writer (BTC?)

    My problem is that I have been trying to install Ubuntu. Wubi installs it, but once it completes GUI installation, the computer freezes upon selecting Ubuntu from the loader at start up, so I have been trying USB installation (BIOS is set for USB boot & boot order is correct for USB boot) & is a constant no-go (doesn't even recognize the bootable USB).

    Basically, I have been trying to burn an alternate Ubuntu 10.10 install disc, but even though my generic CD writer can read factory discs, burned CD-R discs, CD-RW discs, it doesn't even "see" blank media.

    I can use the drive button to pop it open & closed when playing music CDs, data discs, even burned media, but when I put a blank CD-R in, the drive button doesn't work, light initially comes on to read the disc, but then it goes non-responsive... Physically to a button push. I can right click the drive in My Computer & select eject, it will open just fine.

    If I check properties when a blank CD-R disc is in it, it shows the pie chart as 100% used space, not free, but registers 0 bytes on the disc, free or used.

    Otherwise, properties on any other disc, factory or burned, shows data on the disc, free space, etc.

    I have downloaded the driver for it, but unfortunately the only one that I can find, or driver programs can find is the generic BTC driver that Windows provides.

    If I put in a CD-RW that has been burned, it will attempt to erase it & the red burning activity light goes on, but it doesn't erase the disc, but I believe that to be my fault, when I burned that disc a long time ago, I set the data to read only when I burned it & now Windows won't erase it.

    Nonetheless, it shows that the drive "records" on a CD-RW, just won't "see" blank media.

    I use different burning programs & all of them fail to write to the blank. One says hardware error, one says "device not ready" & CD Burner XP says "No media present".

    This is troubling me deeply, I really want to install Ubuntu & get more out of this old PC.

    Best answer/resolving gets 10 points, 5 stars, best answer, etc. :)

    Thanks in advance!

    1 AnswerDesktops10 years ago
  • How to connect my ADT Video Door Phone (Model A-DC4C) to my PC?

    I recently acquired a brand new ADT Video Door Phone (Color model) & it uses a 6-pin connector out to a module that I don't have. The 6-pin connector is basically a 60' long phone cord, at least it looks like one.

    ADT doesn't like to sell equipment without grabbing a contract out of you, so since I don't want to be bound by a contract for high priced security, I want to hook this door cam to my PC.

    Any backyard PC techs/hacks got any ideas for me? Any experience? I would think that someone out there has a part, or a hack, or something useful to make this work.

    Maybe a video input card (PCI) with a 6-pin input jack? Not to sound cheap either, but something inexpensive. =P

    Please let me know. Best, most detailed answer gets 5 stars & best answer (10 pts). Thanks!

    2 AnswersDesktops10 years ago
  • Question for a mechanically inclined member about my 95 Chevy Suburban?

    Okay, anyone who reads my previous questions will know the details but long story short...

    Bought a 1995 Chevy Suburban 1500 with the 5.7l V8, throttle body, etc.

    Here is what I posted before:

    "Before & since I have cleaned my throttle body, my Suburban sputters when I lightly put my foot on the gas & hesitates at take off.

    For instance, when I lightly press the accelerator & creep along at less than 5 mph, my engine chugs along & kind of sputters. It also does this when I am cruising along, any speed, & lightly press the accelerator to maintain my speed.

    When I get on the gas more, it roars forward as it should, but there is that little area of pedal that causes this.

    What could it be? The gauges all read normal, it starts & runs fine, just does this sputtering thing & hesitation as take off.

    I am unsure of the maintenance as I just bought it used with 180k miles. The mileage is supposed to be mostly highway mileage, I guess the owner drove to Canada & back quite frequently to hunt. It is very clean inside & the body is in good condition for being 15 years old. The engine bay is clean as well, but it doesn't have tell tale signs of being washed under the hood either.

    I am stuck, possibly bad plugs/wires? Maybe some setting in the throttle body? Best answer gets 5 stars."

    Well, as per an answer, I replaced the PCV valve & checked the vacuum lines, but the problem still persists. It didn't get better or worse.

    Any other ideas?

    Thanks in advance, good lead/answer gets 5 stars!

    7 AnswersMaintenance & Repairs10 years ago
  • Question for a mechanic about my 95 Chevy Suburban's acceleration issue?

    Before & since I have cleaned my throttle body, my Suburban sputters when I lightly put my foot on the gas & hesitates at take off.

    For instance, when I lightly press the accelerator & creep along at less than 5 mph, my engine chugs along & kind of sputters. It also does this when I am cruising along, any speed, & lightly press the accelerator to maintain my speed.

    When I get on the gas more, it roars forward as it should, but there is that little area of pedal that causes this.

    What could it be? The gauges all read normal, it starts & runs fine, just does this sputtering thing & hesitation as take off.

    I am unsure of the maintenance as I just bought it used with 180k miles. The mileage is supposed to be mostly highway mileage, I guess the owner drove to Canada & back quite frequently to hunt. It is very clean inside & the body is in good condition for being 15 years old. The engine bay is clean as well, but it doesn't have tell tale signs of being washed under the hood either.

    I am stuck, possibly bad plugs/wires? Maybe some setting in the throttle body? Best answer gets 5 stars.

    Thanks!

    4 AnswersMaintenance & Repairs10 years ago
  • Question for a mechanic about my 95 Chevy Suburban?

    I bought a 1995 Chevrolet 1500 Suburban (5.7L 350 V8) today from a used car lot & immediately noticed that it hesitated, almost sputtered, when I initially take off from a stop. It did it regardless of engine temperature. Then I also noticed that if I barely depressed the gas pedal, it kind of sputtered while I was in drive, moving down the road, almost chugging a long.

    First things first, I put a 16 ounce can of Sea Foam in the gas tank & filled it completely with 89 octane fuel. (35 gallons or so...)

    Next, I went to O'Reilly's & picked up some throttle body & air intake cleaner. I figured that I would clean the throttle body & the idle control valve. Sure enough, the idle control valve was heavily gummed with carbon, as well as the throttle body.

    I spent a good long while soaking the throttle body in cleaner & using cotton swabs to "de-gunk" the insides, then the idle control valve got a good soaking & cleaning. By soaking I mean it got hosed with the cleaner & wiped down, & then was allowed to dry completely.

    Once I was pretty satisfied that I got *most* of the carbon dislodged in the throttle body & the idle control valve was clean, I discovered that the paper gasket on the valve disintegrated. So, back to O'Reilly's only to find that they didn't care them & sold me a rubber o-ring instead. It didn't compress like they said, it rolled out & pinched, so I had to make a gasket.

    The gasket I made was from an old toilet paper roll, the cardboard, which is nowhere near the thickness of the actual gasket.

    I put everything back together & now my truck idles somewhere around 1700-2000 RPM & 1000-1100 RPM in drive. Still hesitates & sputters when I barely press the gas.

    Then on the way home after grabbing something to eat, it felt as though the truck was starting off in a higher gear & not shifting properly, & a couple times after I started it, it sounded as though the engine was making lifter noise (same speed as the engine revs) which subsided after awhile.

    The service engine soon light came on when I sat at idle in gear or park, then turned off again after about ten seconds of accelerating moderately. This happened twice, then hasn't since.

    Except for the hesitation & the sputtering at low acceleration, this all started after I cleaned the throttle body & idle control valve. High idle, lifter noise (twice) & feeling like it is starting out in third (low power accelerating).

    For sure I need a new gasket for my idle control valve, that may be part of it, but being too thin, is it causing my idle control valve to be in too far, since it was designed for a thicker gasket? Could I have ruined my idle control valve by cleaning it? Could a small bit of carbon fallen in deeper into the valve causing problems or is it even possible for it to be ruined by cleaning it?

    Any help from an auto expert would be of great help & will be very appreciated.

    Thank all of you in advance. I will make sure to rate the best answers & all that, believe me, I am very appreciative for any help I get.

    -James

    2 AnswersMaintenance & Repairs10 years ago
  • Looking for someone who has an available North American Aion Refer-A-Friend Key for me.?

    I know you get free time added if someone buys the game & adds time to their account so if anyone has a trial key (valid) for me to use, then you will get an extra 30 days added once I try it out & buy/download/pay for it before my trial is over.

    Instead of being like the majority of the people asking for you to just send keys, how about you contact me first & let me know if you have a trial key for me to use (and ultimately benefit you with free time).

    Then when I get back to you, you will know if I got a key already, so no wasted time sending out a key to someone who will just go post it on a forum board somewhere.

    Also, I will choose a "best answer" of the person that sends me the key, updating my question so everyone knows I received a key already.

    Thanks in advance!

    -Jay

    Edit:

    If you just want to send a key actually, you can click my name here & choose to email me. I will then close this question.

    Thanks!

    2 AnswersVideo & Online Games1 decade ago
  • Anyone have an available free trial to Aion Online? I am ready to buy, but want to try it first. Read on...?

    I know you get free time added if someone buys the game & adds time to their account so if anyone has a trial key (valid) for me to use, then you will get an extra 30 days added once I try it out & buy/download/pay for it before my trial is over.

    Instead of being like the majority of the people asking for you to just send keys, how about you contact me first & let me know if you have a trial key for me to use (and ultimately benefit you with free time).

    Then when I get back to you, you will know if I got a key already, so no wasted time sending out a key to someone who will just go post it on a forum board somewhere.

    Also, I will choose a "best answer" of the person that sends me the key, updating my question so everyone knows I received a key already.

    Thanks in advance!

    -Jay

    1 AnswerVideo & Online Games1 decade ago