I had an accident at work in a truck back in January. I was cited for a minor violation, was issued no points and the accident is actually listed as a not at fault. No other cars involved, no injuries. Damage severity only says "property". I'm in PA if that matters. How will my personal insurance company handle this? Will they cancel my policy? Have not had an accident in 3 years+. Company is USAA. Any advice here would be appreciated. I have had another accident before but they are years old, beyond the time frame they take into consideration when you're already a customer.4 AnswersInsurance & Registration2 years ago
Hypothetical question: If a company sends me to school for my CDL, I pass, and am under contract (such as 1 year, 2 year, 3 year etc), what will happen if someone would leave before their contract expires? I ve heard the rules have changed, and companies like C.R England claim they can hold your school certificate, AND put a lock on your license so you can t drive. Please do not answer this unless you know for sure. Also, IF I pay up the amount owed for my school tuition, can they do anything then? Please advise. Thank you.3 AnswersLaw & Ethics3 years ago
Hello. Is it legal for an employer to deny me a job because I do not have contactable references?15 AnswersLaw & Ethics4 years ago
So I'm looking to take my drawing skills to a new height, but I'm being held back by paper which is half the battle. I draw in graphite only. I'm looking to take a more hyperrealistic approach. A bunch of my artist friends from the UK keep saying to use smooth bristol. I've tried some by a couple brands (have yet to try Strathmore 500) and they both did not accept the graphite or allow any smooth shading/blending. I'm too afraid of having the same result with the Strath' 500 plate Bristol. Can anyone point me in the right direction?2 AnswersDrawing & Illustration4 years ago
I m having a big issue. I resigned from my position with an employer for medical reasons, and soon after pursued a more optimal employment opportunity. The new employer fired me and my entire group the day of orientation. Even though they hadn t taken in our tax documents, we were still on file as employees and had official offer letters. I do understand the laws of PA unemployment, either 6 months of employment or $3000 earned. But, upon terminating us, the company explained it was due to a large scale mistake on their part and that if we filed for unemployment that they would not contest it. Is this basically stating that they would communicate with unemployment to approve us for unemployment through them? Would I have to get my unemployment approved through my previous employer or them? This is really confusing.1 AnswerLaw & Ethics4 years ago
I'm in friendly competition with an artist friend of mine from Europe...
I've been noticing that some of my drawings fall back a tad due to my paper type, and there's a lot of different things I've tried. He's suggested to me I should use Canson Bristol Extra Smooth A3 paper, but it's something I'd have to order which would come from the UK. Not comfortable with doing that,
So does anybody know what would be the equivalent to that? Something extra smooth, that accepts details and shading just as well? And where could I get it? Please do tell.1 AnswerDrawing & Illustration4 years ago
I need an answer quick! I have a class B CDL in the state of Pennsylvania. As per their idiotic policies, if you don't update your medical card and sent it to them, they take your commercial privilages.
The US Postal Service Screwed me and returned my letter containing my new information to Penndot, and now I'm past the due date. However, they didn't say my CDL credentials were revoked, just got another letter telling me to send it in. The actual medical card was renewed well before it was required to be. Will I get my Commercial privileges back if I just send them the new card and I'll just have to wait till they process it? Will calling them help? Or will I just have to get my CDL all over again?3 AnswersOther - Cars & Transportation4 years ago
I've got a question. I've been thinking about getting into doing tractor trailer driving. I got my CDL B, and I can handle THOSE kinds of trucks quite well, but my B isn't going anything for me since I have no experience. All the light truck jobs require experience, yet say they are entry level. Go figure.
So, the two companies I'm deciding between so far are SWIFT and Werner.
Now, the one thing I really would rather do is local/dedicated... the pay is lower, but still better than working at a warehouse...
I've only seen a few testimonials, can't really find many. My question is, do they offer any kind of dedicated routes for guys who've just gotten out of their CDL training program (or in simpler terms, new drivers)? Really wondering. I'd like to start off with a decent company with decent home time. A kid I knew from high school who went with the company told me he usually gets 2-3 days off a week, but he won't tell me much else. (I'm not really friends with him and I'm not gonna pump him for answers when I don't even know him. Hello, internet). Anyway, let me know, folks. If this helps, I'm in Pennsylvania. If you know a good company to start with in what I'm looking for, shout it out.1 AnswerOther - Cars & Transportation4 years ago
So, I'm from Pennsylvania and I'm thinking of going into driving tractor trailer.
I got my class B CDL a year ago and its doing nothing for me, so I'm going to need a company I can go to who will train me for my class A and hire me.
I've seen the few options, all of them being either Western Trucking, Knight, Swift, and CR England. My question is, which ones offer the best home time? I know I'm not going to get home every night right off the bat, duh, but home every weekend would be nice. I've been perplexed by the fact that I've seen folks I used to go school with who went to one of these train to hire companies, and their schedules are odd... they'll be out for onky three days at a shot, home two, out three, and repeat.
Any advice? Even if the pay isn't the absolute best, I want to survive. However I would not like to only be home 5 days out of the month on those "15 on, 2 off" schedules. Any advice would be appreciated. Please don't degrade me for my question if you happen to find it idiotic.
I'm only wondering because every place I've applied to with my class B this summer all want experience. Can't get any if I can't get a f*ckin job in the field.1 AnswerOther - Cars & Transportation4 years ago
Very long/thorough description! I m having a problem with my GMC Sierra 1500, 5.7L 4x4. I ve been chasing this problem for eons now. Rebuilt motor, only around 90k in mileage on the rebuild. Whenever I m going up a steep hill and need to lay on the throttle, or begin climbing smaller hills from a low speed, I get what is NOW a persistent misfire, but only under load. I ve replaced everything you can think of... Fuel pump, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, distributor and its components all check out, coil, module, cam, and crank sensor, egr valve, o2 and knock sensors are all fine (and in amazing shape to be honest). Finally my mechanic who checked it out put it on a live feed. Its ONLY missing on cylinder 3, and hes getting a running rich code. He is also now telling me a its probably a valve or lifter. Only thing I havent changed is fuel spider and injectors. It idles perfectly and runs amazing on flat ground and at normal speeds. Only highway speeds/uphill is it having this issue. After leveling out, it immediately stops.
Could it really be a sticky/bad valve or just sticky lifter? Or could it just be a fuel injector and this dude is just trying to get an engine job out of me? he s trying to tell me GM put out a TSB for the valves.2 AnswersMaintenance & Repairs4 years ago
I have a 1997 1500 GMC, 5.7l. I keep getting this misfire at hire speeds... provided I'm going uphill of any sort. Itll usually start between 65 or 75 mph. If I floor it, it'll go away and accelerate fine until evevtually the SES light comes on. I've had the entire fuel system checked, from the injectors on back to the pump. Had pump replaced. Distributor checks out fine.b replaced coil, wires, plugs, cap and rotor. Also replaced fuel pump when it was going bad. I've finally been told either my catalytic converter is clogging up or its my tps. Help?1 AnswerMaintenance & Repairs5 years ago
So I ve been asking questions about this damn GMC. its a 5.7l 350ci vortec motor.
I m having this persistent misfire issue. Up around 70+mph on the highway, it starts to shudder like hell. If I keep laying on the throttle without making it downshift it gets worse and just throws a P0300 random misfire code. I ve covered all the bases. Pump, checked injectors and regulator and they all function to spec, filter, no vacuum leaks. Intake gaskets are all in awesome condition. I m left to think its a spark issue. I ve changed cap and rotor a few thousand miles back, but before this the truck ran 21k+ without needing new cap and rotor, only new plugs and it never acted like this. Could it need it again?
I ve been told either distributor itself, cap and rotor, hall effect sendor or distributor gear. Sorry for the description but the more accurate the description, hopefully more accurate the answer...or so I hope. I m keeping this truck as a memorial to somebody dear to me who passed but I m tired of throwing money at it and would like decent advice on what direction to go next. Thank you in advance!4 AnswersGMC5 years ago
Okay so I'm stumped on this one. I have a 1997 GMC 1500 with the 5.7L in it. I've been having a misfire issue. Its usually around 60-70 mph when under load on a hill, and doesn't always make an appearance (though its been happening more and more). I'm also having an issue where when I start it, fuel pump runs every time but start I have to turn the key back and forth a couple of times to get it to start or it just cranks. Am I better off replacing the distributor or ignition coil? I really love this truck and this issue is ******* my mind. So far I've replaced mass airflow sensor, and crank sensor. Since crank sensor has been replaced, its partially fixed the running issue. Help?5 AnswersGMC5 years ago
Heu guys. I need help with my 1997 GMC 1500 with the 5.7L 350 Vortec.
I have a misfire on the #3 Cylinder. I have no hesitation, plenty and I mean plenty of the power, no getting thrown outta gear, but I have a tiny shake at idle. The check engine light came on going up a rather steep hill, but it didn't rankle or shake like when the whole damn thing needed to be tuned up. Kept power and all. I tried seeing how it idled with a different plug, still got a barely noticeable shake. There are no symptoms of an injector issue like power loss or hesitation, the thing is actually high performance. After taking the plug out and wire off, cleaning the plug and putting It back in, I took it for a test drive. I couldn't manage to test on as steep of a hill but I had it under quite a bit of load, near floored, no light came on, performed great.
If it happens again though under the same circumstances, could I just be looking at a plug wire issue? Maybe an injector needs to be cleaned? Please help. I love this truck and don't have a lot of money. I wanna get a better idea of what's going on before I run to a shop1 AnswerMaintenance & Repairs5 years ago
I need to know if I can get Financial Aid for CDL/B License Classes if I go to a community college for the classes. If it matters, I live in the state of Pennsylvania.2 AnswersFinancial Aid5 years ago
So I have a 1997 GMC Sierra 1500. I'm having an issue.
Whenever I'm backing up to the right at any speed, or when I'm turning left above 20 or so mph I'm hearing what sounds like either a metallic clanking or scraping that is very light in its tone, and subtle, coming from the front end drivers side. The sound of the noise comes systematically as the front wheel spins while moving. Nobody on the passenger side ever hears it. But it only comes about in the instances mentioned above. Everybody I know is saying either a wheel hub assembly or brake part that went screwy. I haven't torn it apart yet, but I did put it on a Jack to test the wheels for play. Passenger side has no play, however the driver side does, but only slight side to side play, no vertical play. I also rotated the wheels while it was on the jack. Passenger side is silent, but when I spin the drivers side I can hear the metallic sorta scraping noise ever so slightly. No change in handling of the vehicle. It needs an alignment, has since I got it. But it pulls to the right rather than the left. Again, always has. I feel no vibration while driving, and hear nothing at speed.
The noise does not at all sound sinister, but it is a good indicator something is wrong.
So, wheel hub assembly? Brakes? I need to know before I send it to a mechanic. Brakes or a wheel hub assembly I can do on my own. I have checked, no none of my control arms are bent.3 AnswersMaintenance & Repairs6 years ago
So I want to quit smoking, however, I also want to lose weight. Now, I'm hearing stories from all around. Some people who are only a tad overweight (or not even) gain weight after quitting. Some people who are for the most part overweight (or very) have actually LOST weight after quitting smoking (and getting through the withdrawl stage). So I ask...what will happen to me? I'm about 5'9, and around 300 pounds. Maybe about 290 since I did somehow go down a couple pants sizes since about 6 months ago. At the weight I'm at...are the cigarettes slowing my metabolism? I'm hoping somebody can shed some light on this for me. I want to quit smoking AND lose weight, and I'll be much more comfortable committing to both if I know that doing one isn't going to f#&! me up beyond recognition. I'm not going to use anything as a crutch, but I am quite frightened and seeking information about the tobacco end of things because I've heard/seen some real horror stories.4 AnswersDiet & Fitness6 years ago
Alright look, I've never really had a problem pleasing a woman in bed, but I myself am not happy with my size. And, seeing as I'm still struggling to lose weight, I'd like to make my "tool" a big bigger if you know what I'm getting at. If this answer really is some sort of herbal remedy, I wanna hear it from somebody real who's actually tried it, and I want to know it's not something that's going to mess with my heart or blood (like in some horror stories I've heard). Is there any SAFE supplement or home remedy out there that can actually increase the size of my Johnson? If you're some bot representing some scam artist company, do not even answer this. I want real answers from real people.7 AnswersMen's Health6 years ago
So I have a 1991 S10 pickup with a 4.3L V6 Throttle Body Injection. Fuel pump just went out recently and replaced it. Also there was a break in the wiring harness. Fixed that and now I no longer have to prime the fuel pump with a button.
Now I have a new issue. The engine keeps flooding itself when I try to start it. If it doesn't flood before turning over, it idles extremely rough (chugging and all, still getting too much fuel), breathing extremely heavy (taking in a ton of air and carrying on), and when I go to rev it, it wants to shut off and die. I can hear the pump run when I turn the key. When I take off one of the plugs for one of the injectors, then it idles fine for a bit, then it wants to die from not getting enough fuel, still has trouble when I hit the petal. I'm not sure if it's the spider injection inside the manifold. Could the pump still be running? Computer or ECM failure? Please Help!3 AnswersChevrolet7 years ago